Two kids on four wheelers were flying down my road with no lights and i pulled out and then braked and gassed it really hard in reverse, i got out of the way but the back and was hopping really violently. Could this have damaged something???
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1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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just wheel hop. happens in my car if i do it too fast. just take a peak and make sure nothing is hanging2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD -
I agree. I think it was just wheel hop. Do you have stock LCAs? When I had mine, I recall that the wheel hop was horrible.94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...Comment
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Welcome to my world, bro. I seem to get that whenever I punch it.Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
SOLD- Kinda miss it
94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
SOLD- Good riddance!
2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slowComment
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to fix this going forward its usually, LCAs, recloation brackets for the LCAs, if that dont work then its either a poly torque arm mount or a aftermarket torque arm. thats my next steps to get rid of my wheel hop(have UMI LCAs already, just need to weld in the brackets)2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HDComment
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If I read the original post correctly, he's talking about wheel hop when hammering it in REVERSE. That is normal, and I'm not sure why or exactly what it hurts, but I have seen people claim they damaged the rear by doing that.
You would be running the gear teeth on the "back" surfaces, not intended to see any more load than a coast down. That reverses the loads on all the thrust surfaces. All the loads on the suspension would be just the opposite of what you see under a normal FORWARD launch. The pinion shaft is trying to rotate down, rather than up, the LCA's are in tension, opposing the rotation of the pinion shaft, and if your LCA's are lower on the axle than they are on the body end (good for FORWARD straigh line traction), its going to hop like crazy, and hammer the backs of the gear teeth.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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Fred made some good points. It is also pretty hard on the trans. It places alot of opposing force on the internals especially the forks.Comment
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Thanks for that info Fred, I was just worried I may be un aware of something. Everything is perfectly fine with the driveline now so I guess nothing broke. I just know to take it easy when backing up.1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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