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150 Shot on a Stock LS1?

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  • 150 Shot on a Stock LS1?

    I heard people running 150 shots on stock ls1, what do you guys think, is that to much. i would be running probably a nx wet kit. also if that is to much how much can i run on stock everthing saftely. also if a get a fuel pump, injectors, and a tune, what kinda shot do you think i can run safetly?

  • #2
    Stay away from a wet kit IMO. Contrary to popular belief, enrichening the a/f mixture by manually sending additional fuel through the intake manifold has shown to cause more problems than not. Typically even on an LS1 with tuned length manifold runners, the back 2 cylinders (7,8) and #5 will typically run leaner. The reason it runs leaner in is because of distrbution problems caused by running a liquid through a manifold that was designed to run dry. Not only that but there have been many reports of puddling, and backfiring problems. In other words, a potential of hood removal.

    Dry kits are easier to setup, cheaper, less maintenance, easier to tune, have the potential to make more power, and are more reliable on a basically stock motor.

    Now of course a DP setup, helps to eliminate the distribution problem on the wet setup, but you still have the potential for puddling and backfiring.

    Also be aware that various manufacturers advertise their HP ratings by different methods. Some at the fly wheel; some are RWHP ratings. For example, alot of the guys over on ls1tech report showing a 130+ RWHP gain on a TNT kit advertised at 100 HP. Some show a gain of 180+ RWHP on a TNT kit advertised at 150 HP. Just don't judge a kit by it's HP ratings. TNT, NX, and NOS all make quality kits. All just have differently engineered kits.

    For example the TNT kits are recommended to be run at 900 PSI, while NX recommends 1000-1050.

    Also make sure to include the safety items in your budget such as a FP safety switch, RPM low and high pills, and bottle pressure gauge and BO valve. A bottle heater also helps to maintain consistent bottle pressure.

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    • #3
      so whats is 150 cool on a stock ls1? If not what would be safe to run 100? 75?
      R.I.P. 2001 Trans Am- C5's 17" and 18", way too expensive stereo, SLP LM, WS6 hood, and more to come.
      2002 GSXR 750- PC, -1, tinted windscreen

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      • #4
        If you are worried about blowing up you motor you are obviously on a budget.(As I am) Dont take any risk... Get a set of headers or a cam instead. They cost much less than an engine rebuild.
        No F-Body right now

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        • #5
          Originally posted by loudRED94TA
          so whats is 150 cool on a stock ls1? If not what would be safe to run 100? 75?
          There are tons of guys succesfully running 150 shots or bigger on internally stock LS1's. As long as the system is setup and tuned properly, you should be fine.

          Do a search over on ls1tech in the nitrous section. Lots of good information and opinions over there.

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          • #6
            I've had both types of kits. Both of them have there ups and downs. The dry setup will make 7-8 cylinders run leaner and 1-2 run richer. And you have to relay on the pcm to add the fuel (which is good for newbies, bad if your pcm acts up). With the wet kit bottle pressure is more of a issue. Also puddling can occur because the intake wasn't designed for fuel to go through it, but that normally occurs when you spray at to low of a rpm. Either way you choose your gonna need a fuel pump to spray a 150 shot to be safe. I know of alot of people who do a 200 shot on stock bottom end but a 150 shot is alot safer if you can't afford to gamble.
            99' TA 347 H/C MS4, QTP headers, 9' 4.11's
            11.05@ 125 on motor, 9.80 @142 on nitrous

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            • #7
              I suppose suffice it to say, there is an inherant risk with any type of power adder setup. Those who have the least amount of problems are the ones who take the time and effort to dial everything in and implement all the reasonable safety precautions. The LSx motors are remarkably resilient at handling power adders even on a bone stock bottom end. There are a handful of guys running 9's on bone stock bottom ends with 200 shots. How long will they last? Who really cares as long as you're having fun.

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              • #8
                2 local guys here I know are running 200 shots on stock bottom end Ls6s. Guy number 1 blew his motor in October because the temps dropped at night and he was out racing. It can be done but if it were me I would not run anymre than a 100 shot on a stock bottom end. I prefer the N/A route - all motor. I am at 383 RWHP with a SMALL cam and stock heads. With heads I will easily be over ~400 RWHP and near 400 RWTq - a lot of stress on EVERYTHING else. If you have the money to replace whatever blows so be it. My plan is to continue to build the car to handle the power at each step. My car now needs a new clutch and rearend to handle the power I already have. They work fine now but are not built to handle the power. Launching right now = lots of wheel spin on street tires. So you fix the problem with DRs - now the clutch slips. You fix the clutch with a higher performing one and now the car hooks and blows up the rear end. Now you know why roll racing is so popular right now.
                Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



                Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

                Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

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