Procharger Questions

[markd79ta]

I am getting ready to order my supercharger for the '97. Unfortunately, I don't have the money for the kit + the axle/motor upgrades. The reseller is going to altitude adjust the D-1SC Twin High Flow Intercooled system at 8psi. I think I am going to ditch the FMU and install 42lb injectors per the resaller's suggestion. I am then going to ship my PCM off to PCM4Less and have it programmed. Eventually, I hope to build a forged motor and install a Strange 12 bolt...that is why I am going overkill on the supercharger kit...I want to be able to grow into it.

So does anybody have any suggestions before I spend a ton of money on this? Incidentally, I am going through Superchargers4Less

[fastTa]

I am getting ready to order my supercharger for the '97. Unfortunately, I don't have the money for the kit + the axle/motor upgrades. The reseller is going to altitude adjust the D-1SC Twin High Flow Intercooled system at 8psi. I think I am going to ditch the FMU and install 42lb injectors per the resaller's suggestion. I am then going to ship my PCM off to PCM4Less and have it programmed. Eventually, I hope to build a forged motor and install a Strange 12 bolt...that is why I am going overkill on the supercharger kit...I want to be able to grow into it.

So does anybody have any suggestions before I spend a ton of money on this? Incidentally, I am going through Superchargers4Less

8 PSI will be just fine on your LT1. And I agree with the 42lb injectors and ditching the ATI FMU. But, I would strongly suggest that you consider dyno tuning your FI setup instead of doing a mail order tune. There are so many variables on a FI setup and it's so much better and more reliable to consider getting it dyno tuned with a chassis dyno that has the capacity to load.

[markd79ta]

8 PSI will be just fine on your LT1. And I agree with the 42lb injectors and ditching the ATI FMU. But, I would strongly suggest that you consider dyno tuning your FI setup instead of doing a mail order tune. There are so many variables on a FI setup and it's so much better and more reliable to consider getting it dyno tuned with a chassis dyno that has the capacity to load.

There is only one person in the Denver area that I trust to do this. Unfortunately, he kinda looks down on the do-it yourself-ers, and I am a little suspect of how he will react if I bring the car to him for a tune especially since I am going to cut some corners because of funds. Such as, I can't really afford to buy a blower cam, rockers, springs, etc., but I can afford the LT4 hot cam kit and springs. I will talk to him and see what he says.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Hey Mark, I am upgrading all my stuff and I will be having a lot of parts to sell all in excellent condition including Comp 212/224 114 blower cam, AFR double valve springs with titanium retainers (7k mi) or Comp 308 springs with steel retainers (3k mi) & Crane gold race 1.6 SA rockers (10k mi). Even though the springs are used, they are all deburred which takes several hours to do and have lots of life left in them. The cam is in the original box with the cam card and warranty card even. If you are interested in any of it, please e-mail me off list. Either way, you should at least do valve springs when you put on a blower. Don't forget that you won't get good performance even NA on old springs, and the positive blower pressure tries to keep the intakes from closing so the springs have that extra pressure to overcome.

Also, here's what can happen to your stock pistons - my car still went 12.4 on it's lasst run with the head gasket blowing and 6 cylinders pumping...