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  • OMG My LT1 woke up....

    Just got finished installing my RK sport headers, CC 1.6 pro mag roller rockers, LT4 valve springs, Hard pushrods, OVC wires, SLP pressure plate and new Kevlar clutch disk.
    The car has been in pieces for over a month but I took my sweet time to address all issues along the way.

    Damn what an improvement at mid to higher RPM's
    The power is strong all the way to 6000K RPM. Unfortunately the roads are salty so it is near impossible to get a strong launch without lighting the tires up but I can feel huge gains in all gears. I can also clearly tell I dont have any clutch slip which is wonderful.

    I really hope im have a good mid 13 second car here. That has been the goal.
    Maybe one day I will go cam and heads but I will wait for a reason to have to go into the engine. I think Im close to a full bolt on car, I dont want pulleys because of charging issues and I dont want NOS.
    Anybody have any suggestions for additional mods without going into the engine.
    I will be going to the dyno sometime very soon.

    Thanks to all those who helped my along the way.
    Man I cant wait for spring clean, warm roads.
    1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
    Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
    Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

  • #2
    Originally posted by wrd1972
    what an improvement at mid to higher RPM's
    The power is strong all the way to 6000K RPM. I really hope im have a good mid 13 second car here. That has been the goal.

    I dont want pulleys because of charging issues................

    Anybody have any suggestions for additional mods without going into the engine.
    I will be going to the dyno sometime very soon.

    Thanks to all those who helped my along the way.
    Man I cant wait for spring clean, warm roads.

    Yep. The headers and rockers free up a few ponies that you can feel! Contrary to what some say, pulleys can get you a few HP and with the appropriate alternator pully, no charging problems either. Consider a 1LE aluminum driveshaft too. I subscribe to the theory that lots of small things ultimately make a large improvement.

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    • #3
      did you go self aligning??
      ed
      1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully "

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Joe 1320
        Yep. The headers and rockers free up a few ponies that you can feel! Contrary to what some say, pulleys can get you a few HP and with the appropriate alternator pully, no charging problems either. Consider a 1LE aluminum driveshaft too. I subscribe to the theory that lots of small things ultimately make a large improvement.
        Oops, I have the Le1 aluminum driveshaft. The dealer put it back in 97.
        I will add that to my sig.
        Thanks
        1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
        Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
        Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by LoudLT1
          did you go self aligning??
          ed
          No I went non self aligning with the GM guide plates and Melling hardened push rods and 7/16" studs. Also replace the seals while I was in there. Overall the install was straight forward. #8 was a PITA and man my hand hurts from cranking that compressor.
          1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
          Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
          Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

          Comment


          • #6
            Not "power related" but if there is one thing that I have learned from this site it is you HAVE to do suspension mods to get the most out of these cars. I got some subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and some tubular lower control arms and I couled definitely feel the difference on the 1st hard launch! I would not worry about charging issues - I have the ASP underdrive pulley and have not noticed any issues with it at all. Nice car by the way! I had a 96 Z28 conv't - white with a white top - miss it!
            Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



            Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

            Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

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            • #7
              I agree that lots of "little" mods add up in the end. I think you are off to a good start with the direction you are going. Casey made a good point as well with his suggestion of doing some suspension/chassis mods next. Power is worthless without getting it to the ground.

              Comment


              • #8
                How exactly to lower control arms help. My car never has wheel hop under hard launch. I just get wheel spin.
                I also had just wheel sping with the 3.42's.
                In general the tires I have launch pretty good as long as its not salty winter roads.
                Whill the LCA's help?
                1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                Comment


                • #9
                  In my case I was having very bad wheel hop issues on hard launches. Maybe my tires are a little stickier than what you are running. Anyways the LCAs eliminated the wheel hop. It plants pretty hard now.
                  Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



                  Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

                  Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Did you get the car re-tuned after the mods? That will also help.

                    As for the pulleys, I have the March underdrive & alt pulley, and have never had a charging issue.

                    Can't wait to see the dyno #'s!
                    1997 Trans Am WS6 Black M6
                    370 RWHP / 352 TQ
                    CC306 & Comp behives, LT1 Extreme Duty timing set, 1.6 RR's, CSR Elec Water Pump, Pacesetter LT's & ORY, GMMG w/ Ovals, K&N, Air Foil, TB Bypass, !AIR, !EGR, !CAGS, 160 deg thermo, LT4 KM, PCM tuning by Total-ReCal, March Pullies, Pro 5.0, 4.11 gears, LS1 alum DS, BMR strut tower brace, UMI SFC's, LCA's w/relo brackets & panhard

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by wrd1972
                      How exactly to lower control arms help. My car never has wheel hop under hard launch. I just get wheel spin.
                      I also had just wheel sping with the 3.42's.
                      In general the tires I have launch pretty good as long as its not salty winter roads.
                      Whill the LCA's help?
                      The stock LCA's are weak and will undergo deflection under load (standing on the loud pedal). This allows the rear axle housing to momentarily unload and push forward and thus the tire is able to briefly spin. Then the tire harshly grabs again and loads the LCA again. This process repeats itself over and over and this is one of the reasons you get wheel hop.

                      There are 4 significant things you can do for a better hole shot. Better LCA's, LCA relocation brackets(lowers the rear mounting point),adjustable torque arm, and panhard rod.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ive got the LCA,s and the panhard rod on the way.
                        If I did put the relocation brackets on are they or the arm visible from the side of the car?

                        Thanks
                        1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                        Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                        Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by wrd1972
                          Ive got the LCA,s and the panhard rod on the way.
                          If I did put the relocation brackets on are they or the arm visible from the side of the car?

                          Thanks
                          No more so than stock. I can only see them between the tire and the body of the car and through the wheel between the rotor in the wheel. The only reason I can see mine at all is because they are red.
                          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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