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Buffing/Cleaning T-Bar

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  • #1

    Buffing/Cleaning T-Bar

    I have all of the parts for the conversion, Im just for it to get warm now. However the T bar that I got used has a dirty water spot looking film on the top of it. I tried a cleaner wax but it did nothing. Im just wondering if anyone knows a way to buff it out and make it look new. The paint is great all around except on the top where it looks like it was never washed. Thanks
    1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

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  • #2
    Are you talking about the glass? If so, this will take the water spots off of it.
    http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...ory_Code=Zaino
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      He's not asking about the glass, he is asking about the metal t-bar that goes down the center.

      If it is spotted, it my not buff off. It could very likely be in the paint. What happens is water drops act like little magnifying glasses and focus the sun's rays over that one spot. The magnified rays fade the paint in that spot.

      You may have to repaint it.
      Tracy
      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
      Current Mods:
      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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      • #4
        I guess when the weather gets nicer I will look into repainting it. Thanks for the advise guys. How should I go about repainting it?
        1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

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        • #5
          Honestly, I'd get a different one.

          Repainting it will never result in a good-as-new finish. You can try sanding it, spraying it and buffing it, but it might be a waste of time.
          Tracy
          2002 C5 M6 Convertible
          1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
          Current Mods:
          SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

          Comment

          • #6
            When I bought my car that plastic piece in-between the T tops was pretty dull too. I used the Zaino plastic polish on it and it looks new. I used that stuff on the plastic sail panels on my wife's PT cruiser when we bought it and it restored them too. It's hard to say without knowing how bad it is.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

            Comment

            • #7
              Yeah, mine was pretty beat up too...I sanded mine down and re sprayed with gloss black.

              It looks great...better then it did before.

              Trying to get it off was a pain...it was stuck, so I had to do the job while it was on the car. Not fun...but hey, you gotta do what you gotta do.

              Christopher Teng

              1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
              Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
              B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
              Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
              Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

              Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

              F-Body Dirty Dozen

              Comment

              • #8
                3M foam pad polish and a low speed rotary buffer might take it out. The problem with the T bar is that it is thin and you risk burning the edges. 3M now has a super small buffing pad that is about 3" in diameter. I think that would help you out. Sorry I can't be of more assistance as I cannot see what we are working with. Sometimes, "hands on" makes all the difference in the diagnosis.
                LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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                • #9
                  You might try "Liquid Ebony". It is a mild cutting polish that is super on dark colors. It's available at auto paint supply shops and is paintbooth safe. (no silicones to cause fisheyes in paint)

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    My brother had the same problem on his Firehawk. Unfortunately, it had to be replaced by the dealer. I detail cars on the side, and I tried everything I know of with no success.
                    '99 SS, #1392 Onyx Black/Neutral leather; M6; T-Tops; SLP Options: Perf. Exhaust; Key Fobs; Plaque

                    Mods.; SLP L/T's; SLP Y-Pipe; Random Tech High-Flow Cats; SLP Loudmouth; PRO 5.O w/ Lou's Short Stick; MTI Airlid w/ K&N; Hotchkiss STB; OPTIMA Red Top; Chrome ZR1's

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                    • #11
                      The strip should be taken care of the same way you do your paint. Try white vinegar to remove the spots, if that doesn't work try a mild abrasive. If it is bad enough you may need to get it repainted, but do it professionally to get it looking right.

                      Kevin Villier 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", T-Tops, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, BMR STB, chrome-moly panhard rod and LCA's, SLP SFC's, PPC LT's w/ RT hi-flo cats and hi-flo Y, TEA Stage 1.5 5.3L heads, TR224 cam, ASP pulley, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid, Holley Power-Shot filter, Mallory polished MAF ends, 4.10 gears.

                      Louisville, KY

                      SSOA F02-0186
                      KY F-Bodies Unlimited

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