Fuel Pump Question:

[jerrysta]

Guys, I am curious if it is safe to install a fuel pump two months before the car will ever be started?

I'm looking at getting my engine back soon and would like to have the pump installed and ready to go. The car does not have much gas in it (maybe a quarter of a tank) but it will not be sitting in a dry tank.

Is this a good or bad idea?

[fastTa]

What do you think a fuel pump does on the shelf?

[jerrysta]

Well, of course it sits!

I was talking more since it will be sitting in the fuel with nothing really "pumping" for a couple of months as opposed to sitting nice and dry in it's box.

[fastTa]

You really should drain and clean the tank anyway, so it shouldn't matter. But, if you do end up just end up swapping pumps, it will be fine. But, if it were me, I would drain and clean the tank and I wouldn't let the fuel sit for too long either.

[raroZ28]

it won't hurt the pump. Install it and get it out of the way. Might want to consider the trap door method if you are buying a walbro. My walbro crapped out after a few days! Second one lasted me over a year, knock on wood.

[jerrysta]

I am buying a Walbro with the wiring harness. I'll heed your guys advice.

Only bad thing is that this fuel has already been sitting since October. When I was ready to get her going again I was going straight to the gas station for a fill up of 94 (will be my minimum octane due to compression of the new motor).

[raroZ28]

i wouldn't worry about that gas being bad. Put in some sta-bil. I mean, I hated cutting through my hatch doing the trap door, but I'm happy I did. If I had to drop that rear end, and drop that gas tank and put the pump in... Then have to do it 3 days later, I would have been in a rage. Trap door, the swap takes 15 minutes.

Edit: What do you mean "AND" wiring harness? Just so you know, the walbro should come with the pump, wiring harness, and sock filter. Mine did anyway, from Ramchargers. If you're buying from a website and it's costing you regular price, and they're only giving you the pump, tha'ts kinda a ripoff I think.

[jerrysta]

The kit with "plug and play" wiring harness is running 249.99 on pretty much every site I have found it on.

Should I just be getting the 160 dollar kit? Is that what you are saying?

Ad says that you do not need to solder or splice a single wire. If that's a bunch of BS I'll save the 90 bucks!

[raroZ28]

Well, I paid 139.99 for my Walbro, 255 LPH, with wiring harness, complete plug and play, and a new sock filter.

I am not sure why yours is so much. This is exactly like the kit I got.

Ebay Walbro Pump

That's the kit I got. Pump, plug, filter, hose, clamps, etc... $139.99

[jerrysta]

The one I'm talking about is being touted as being made for the LT1 for use with the plastic bucket we have in the tank.

So there was no soldering of wires or anything that you had to do?

[raroZ28]

NO soldering. That's what that pigtail is for. It clips onto the factory wire, then clips right onto the pump. Simple as that. You CAN use the factory bucket with it. I actually had the factory bucket on the first intall, but after the pump crapped out and I did it again, I went w/out the bucket because I didn't have time to let adhesive cure and keep it shut. It doesn't like snap together, that bucket is sealed with glue.

I would say for 250 you are getting really ripped off..... No soldering, no cutting of any wires nothing. Simple plug and play dude.

[jerrysta]

Thanks. I see the same one there on e-bay for 109.99. It's only 120 shipped. Sounds good to me.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Jerry, you can put the pump in the tank then dump 5 gallons of premium with some stabil in there & everything will be covered in gasoline & not rust. The gas will be a little stale by the time you start the car, but you are going to have a 500 mile break in while you are easy on the car, so no big deal.

[raroZ28]

This could be a debatable subject, but when you're breaking in that motor, Jerry, you don't want to "go easy" on it. You don't want to floor it all around, but you want to run it up through the entire RPM range nonstop.

Listen to the motoman
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Before the factory sends out a motor, they spin the crap out of it. It's the only way to seal the rings properly. If you baby it, your rings won't seat well and you will lost compression down the road, maybe some blowby, etc...

[fastTa]

This could be a debatable subject, but when you're breaking in that motor, Jerry, you don't want to "go easy" on it. You don't want to floor it all around, but you want to run it up through the entire RPM range nonstop.

Listen to the motoman
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Before the factory sends out a motor, they spin the crap out of it. It's the only way to seal the rings properly. If you baby it, your rings won't seat well and you will lost compression down the road, maybe some blowby, etc...

Totally agreed. You MUST spin the motor high after a few heat cycles to properly wear-in the rings and bearings. If you don't, you're not doing it right.

And you guys should really take stale gas more seriously. It doesn't matter if you baby the motor or run it WOT; all it takes is one little bit of "gelled" up gasoline to clog an injector. Always start with completely fresh gas with a brand new motor.