Should I run my Tranny Cooler through the Radiator or not?

[jerrysta]

Some guys say no, because your radiator is supposedly hotter than your trans fluid much of the time......

Other guys say yes, because the fluid will get cooled twice.

I don't understand the inner workings of a radiator, but if it is hotter than my trans fluid I would think it would be better to bypass it and just cool through the tranny cooler only.

I am running a high stall converter with a new motor and this part is a must in my mind, I just want to know the best way to install it.

[redws6]

i would say, why risk it (goin through the rad being hotter)

i would run it strait through the cooler and back to the trans.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I think that an automatic will run hotter than the radiator. Here is an autometer gage. Notice the range of the gage. My water temp runs right at 180 with a 160 thermostat and that is pretty low on the gage.

[brothapig]

If you do bypass it and run it through it's own cooler, I have always heard to place the cooler behind the radiator. That way the trans cooler won't see cold air, but rather warm air from the radiator, and keep the transmission from running too cold. This what I have heard, and others may want to chime in here with their opinions.

[fastTa]

The cooler the tranny the better and the longer the clutch and seal life. You want to try to keep your transmission under 200 deg F. Most people fing it succesful by running the trans cooler as a stand-alone unit and locating it where it will see the most exchange of fresh air possible.

No matter what you are going to put some heat into the trans especially with a higher stall, and a transmission is not somehow dependant on a specifically high enough heat to function properly.

[Performin Norman]

In my 94 Camaro, I ran it into the radiator first, then into the auxilliary cooler, then back to the tranny.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

In my 94 Camaro, I ran it into the radiator first, then into the auxilliary cooler, then back to the tranny.

Me too. The car ran cool enough and because of the extra cooler in front of the radiator, the tranny was always below the temp of the car. I don't think it ever got past the 180's. However, I am considering not going through the radiator this time around. I am trying to simplify how hard the car is to work on. In addition to the cooler, I also have a deep pan and an external filter for added volume.

[jerrysta]

If it were an equal choice I would rather NOT run it through the radiator because of what you said, more and more complication to working on things.

I have my engine and trans completely out of the car and the passenger side line to the radiator is broken, so I am hoping I can just run it in a little simpler manner and plug the holes in the radiator. Then, I can run a line to the cooler line double clamp it and have to flare as few lines as possible! Then do the same with the return line.

My head is spinning as I contemplate each project I need to complete in the next two months or so to get my car running by spring!!?!!?!!? As I read about each project they all seem to be a real PITA!!!! As I'm sitting here researching this one, I realize in the next week I need to have my new fuel pump installed and have the motor mounts ready, too which is a pain due to drilling out the rivets on the damn thing. I need to open a thread about that, too. I need to know if guys bolt the clamshell back together or what after they take the rivets out????.................but that's another story.

Trying to stay on schedule..................

[fastTa]

Yep, it just makes sense to use a trans cooler as a stand-alone unit. Running it through the stacked plate core and then through the trans cooler defeats the purpose of the reason for the trans cooler and you are not recirculating trans heat back into the engine coolant and like Kev mentioned, it is easier to get to and service if needed.

I bolted my clamshells back together the first time. On the driver's side clamshell where the 3 solid rivets are, I just used a die grinder with a thin disc to grind the head off. Then just use a punch and tap them out. I drilled slightly larger holes, used Grade 8 bolts, a lock washer, and Loc-Tite. They never came loose, even when the motor blew up!

[jerrysta]

[quote]I bolted my clamshells back together the first time. On the driver's side clamshell where the 3 solid rivets are, I just used a die grinder with a thin disc to grind the head off. Then just use a punch and tap them out. I drilled slightly larger holes, used Grade 8 bolts, a lock washer, and Loc-Tite. They never came loose, even when the motor blew up! [quote]

The bolts that you used to reattach the clamshell did not get in the way of anything else? Just checking as I worried if it would interfere with something else?

[fastTa]

[QUOTE=jerrysta][quote]I bolted my clamshells back together the first time. On the driver's side clamshell where the 3 solid rivets are, I just used a die grinder with a thin disc to grind the head off. Then just use a punch and tap them out. I drilled slightly larger holes, used Grade 8 bolts, a lock washer, and Loc-Tite. They never came loose, even when the motor blew up!

The bolts that you used to reattach the clamshell did not get in the way of anything else? Just checking as I worried if it would interfere with something else?

I don't recall any interference issues.

[AJ52486]

Another reason to bypass the cooler in the radiator is that I've heard of them leaking, at least on the GM trucks. When this happens, you have ATF in the cooling system, and coolant in the transmission. Not so good.