Thinking of buying 383 block, have a couple questions.

[thenuge876]

Ill post all of the information on the block here first so i can get the best answers possible...


Block

Chevy 350 Block bored .030 over checked for cracks 4 bolt mains. Needs align bore. Not sure on casting number since its in a friends garage but if I recall correctly it is from an early 70's vette.

Pistons

Keith Black Claimer Series Hypereutectic 383 Pistons

Rods

5.7 Not sure brand.

Bearings

Clevite 77
MS 909 P
CB-663P (x4)
Cam Bearings Installed in Block

Timing Chain

Cloyes K Series C-300 1K

Piston Rings

Hastings Ring Set
2M 139 030

All parts are new unused except the block. Block has fresh bore and has been checked. May need some cleaning due to sitting in garage for the past 3 years. The rotating assembly was balanced but the crank has since been stolen so I am not sure if you would have to rebalance all or just the crank you get. Pistons and Rods have been pressed together already.

I was wondering about prices and if this might be a good buy. Its close so I could pick up locally. I was also considering just purchasing the block if the guy would sell it separately. So any advice on prices off both would be good. He said hes taking offers so he doesnt have a set price. What do you guys think (note it doesnt have a crank right now.) Any advice would be appreciated so I can e-mail him back. Thanks as always.

[Performin Norman]

I just wanted to let you know that the block, pistons and rods are not really what makes it a 383 stroker. A combination of the bore and stroke are what makes it a 383. Most importantly, the crankshaft.

As far as pricing, I'm sorry I can't help. I haven't checked for quite a while. A good Lunati crank is probably over $1000, but I'm not sure.

Unless he is fire selling this stuff to you, I'd consider starting from scratch. I'd also carefully consider if I'd want to go with Hypereutectic pistons. It all depends on what you want to do with the motor. Force fed? Nitrous? N/A? etc.

What are your goals?

[thenuge876]

Thats why I was just considering purchasing the block without the extra parts, i was wondering what he meant by it needing a bore align. What I wanted to do was really to find a block and then build it up myself to learn how (as well as getting some decent power out of it) and then put it into a car that I might do some restoring on (a third gen perhaps???), as far as power goes I'd probably be making an N/A engine and was just checking my options out. I would prefer to have forged pistons myself. What kind of price might I offer for just the block and then I could purchase all of the rest on my own. It would be a longer project and would depend on how much money I have to put into it.

If I can clear it up any more just let me know.

[Injuneer]

Needing an align bore is mystifying, since he seems to indicate it had a crank but it was stolen. Align boring is running a boring bar through the mains to make sure they are aligned on the same axis. The block would have to be stripped, cleaned up as necessary to remove rust. Hopefully the pitting on the cylinder walls wouldn't be too bad, and they'd just need a light hone. Then you would align bore it.

The fact that the rods are an unknown is a negative. You would need specs on the pistons - valve relief and dish (if any) to determine if you could use the setup with the heads you might choose, to arrive at the compression ratio you are aiming for.

Seems like most of the parts currently installed would be of questionable condition and value.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

It might or not make much difference, but align boring is usually done first since the decks & bores index off that as a centerline (for blueprinting).

Piston compression heights are meant to work with a given stroke and rod length because, obviously (or not) if you put the same rod & piston from a 3.48 stroke 350 into a 383 crank with 3.75 stroke, it will stick out the top of the block at TDC 1/8", so they raise the pin in the piston 1/8" to bringit back down. So pistons are really matched to the rod/stroke/bore combo for the engine they are going to be used in. If he is going with a budget buildup and HE pistons on a street engine, he can get an inexpensive cast crank and be good to go.

Your block will need to be clearanced for the rods and maybe the crank.

The new crank & flywheel will definitely need to be balanced - the other stuff maybe just re-checked.

[thenuge876]

So might it be better to just purchase the block from him and then start from scrath that way I can determine which parts I want to use and I know everything thats going into it? Also without the rotating assembly for the 383 a 350 done .030 over is a 355 correct? If so I could always go with the 355 it may be easier for me, what do you guys think of purchasing the blocka nd starting from scratch?

[Performin Norman]

I think you'd be better off picking up a different block. I don't know how much they are new but I'm sure you'd feel better buying from a better source.

[thenuge876]

Thats the way it looks right now anyway, Im in the middle of working out my budget for it now, so I was just exploring my options, thanks guys

[Performin Norman]

Have you considered going with a crate motor? They make some wonderful crate engines now. Just about every horsepower and configuration you could hope for. Many of them come with engine dyno sheets and a warranty. They are the way to go if you aren't looking for crazy MONSTER type horsepower.

[78formula78]

yea crate motors rock but he said he wants to build one himself so he can learn. i understand what hes saying cause i feel the same way i want to build my own just so i can have my own engine that i built, one that i know literally inside out. it may not make monster power but it will be a custom engine that i built

[fastTa]

Yeah, sounds like maybe a shady worked block. The fact that he mentions that it needs an align bore but it already has the cylinders punched out? You must have a crankshaft centerline established, like Kevin mentioned, in order to measure from to obtain the block deck measurements for squareness and deck height. Only then, can you start work on the cylinder bores.

Maybe he spun a main bearing, or it is likely that he just lied about the crank being stolen and kept the crank and main caps. This could be why he is saying it needs an align bore. Either way, you would basically have to start all over with this setup.

[thenuge876]

Yeah I think Ill probably go a different direction. And im goin for what 78formula was saying. I want to learn and build my own custom engine and i know that there are definately some serious crate engines around, I would prefer to spend the money in chunks and get parts, build then more etc. Instead of getting an already assembled one. The guy may still send me more info but im most likely going to keep looking.

[fastTa]

Yeah I think Ill probably go a different direction. And im goin for what 78formula was saying. I want to learn and build my own custom engine and i know that there are definately some serious crate engines around, I would prefer to spend the money in chunks and get parts, build then more etc. Instead of getting an already assembled one. The guy may still send me more info but im most likely going to keep looking.

Maybe you can just purcahse the block from him and then assort together all of your own internals. It's better to start with a seasoned block rather than a new one anyway. Just make sure to have it Magnaflux'd or Zyglo'd to look for any cracks or stress fractures.

[thenuge876]

What should I ask for it do you think if I decide to do that?

[fastTa]

What should I ask for it do you think if I decide to do that?

No more than $150 if it is in good shape. Make sure there is not any significant rust or pitting on the cylinder walls, camshaft bores, and main bores.