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  • Engine Stand Load Rating

    Im going to be rebuilding an LT1 block w/ aluminum heads and will be getting an engine stand to sit it on while working on it. Its going to have a mostly complete engine on it when im finished (intake, heads, internals, probably just not some of the accessories) What load rating should I loof for, would 1000 lbs be enough or 1250? Im not sure what these engines way and while it seems like that would be plenty I just wanted to check
    -Dan

    1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

    Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.


  • #2
    1000# or 1250# is plenty for a smallblock Chevy, but you can get a 1500# stand with 4 steel wheels for $59 from Northern Tool, and it folds up when you are done using it.

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    • #3
      Yeah, those will be fine. Your SBC 350 weighs roughly 600lbs fully dressed. Northern Tool and Harbor Freight have super deals on stands.

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      • #4
        Awesome thanks guys, ill check those out becuase the prices id seen so far were a little high and didnt fold up either so thats good.

        A little lgihter than i actually expected

        You think a long block might way like half to 2/3 of that (for transportation purposes)
        -Dan

        1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

        Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

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        • #5
          Just a guess, but I'd say roughly a 100lbs less w/o the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and accesories.

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          • #6
            i got the kit from jegs. the stand(1250 i think), engine bolt kit, drip tray, tool tray, and engine bag for 140$
            2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

            old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 88bird5spd
              i got the kit from jegs. the stand(1250 i think), engine bolt kit, drip tray, tool tray, and engine bag for 140$
              I got mine at Harbor Freight... $29.00

              I dont get any fancy trays or bags, though.
              Tracy
              2002 C5 M6 Convertible
              1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
              Current Mods:
              SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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              • #8
                Don't need no stinkin' drip tray or tool tray.....that's what the floor is for!!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by fastTA
                  Don't need no stinkin' drip tray or tool tray.....that's what the floor is for!!
                  My thoughts exactly.
                  Tracy
                  2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                  1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                  Current Mods:
                  SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I just ended up ordering one from summit. It has a 1000 # load rating, and was 54.95 but they offered free shipping, and since i had a gift card i could use there i only ended up paying like 15 dollars for it in the end. Not a bad deal!! Gotta go get the bolts for it now.
                    -Dan

                    1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

                    Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I strongly recommend a 4 point floor contact instead of a 3. I've seen too many people go to rotate the motor and flip the engine onto the ground.

                      I have two engine stands and both have 4 point contacts.
                      LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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                      • #12
                        Yeah this one does have four contact points, the three point ones had lighter load ratings and didnt look very stable to me, so this should work out well hopefully. What a disaster that would be for the engine to tip especially during reassembly afte putting one of the heads on !!!
                        -Dan

                        1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

                        Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by thenuge876
                          Yeah this one does have four contact points, the three point ones had lighter load ratings and didnt look very stable to me, so this should work out well hopefully. What a disaster that would be for the engine to tip especially during reassembly afte putting one of the heads on !!!
                          Just a quick recommendation. When you put the tube into the sleeve, at the point where the stand rotates, use some lubricant so it will turn easier when there is a load applied.

                          Here's my cheapie AC Delco stand. Just for fun. LOL

                          LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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