battery relocation issues.

[Red20170]

The issue is sometimes the car starts perfect other times it goes click click click click then fires up. I installed my red top battery where the spare tire is. It's a similar set up to the one on ws6.com. So I used the summit kit with the 2 gauge. Electric wise it goes like this. The negative terminal has the ground wire going to the sheet metal that makes up the right wheel well. I sanded all the paint off where the ground wire goes. So the connection is good there. I then ran the hot wire to the engine bay and connected it to the original positive wire. I then took the orginial negative wire and grounded it to the strut tower bolt is. (sanded the paint off that area too.) I moved the 2 gauge wire to the starter directly and got the same issue. Next I broke out the meter with the car running the positive battery terminal reads 14 volts. So I know the battery is charging. I checked all the ground connections and they are really close to 0 ohms. Anybody have a fix? Should I add more grounds?? Thanks....

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Yes. Ground thru the body might not carry all the current even though the resistance seems low. You might want to run a ground to the subframe or subframe connector if you have them, then do the same up front or else run a cable all the way back. grounds are important and a lot of people neglect them. For instance the grounding to the heads is very important - that's where the spark plugs are! 20,000 volts and a poor ground cause a lot of problems in ignition, but no one ever considers it. The block, and the heads need a GOOD GROUND. Hear that everybody???

[Red20170]

So your saying run a negative lead from the battery all the way to the orginial negative lead under the hood. or just ground the the heads to the frame? Would the bolts on the a/c delete pulley be ok to use? thanks

[fastTa]

Not saying you do, but lot's of people make the mistake of thinking that current flows out of the battery from the positive side. Electrical current flows out of the battery from the negative side and not the postive.

Given this, the grounds are very important. At minimum, you should have a 4 ga wire going from the distribution block to the positive post on the starter, 4 ga wire going from the block to the ground side of the starter, a 8 ga wire going from the alternator back to the distribution block, and a 2 ga positive wire going from the dist. block to the postive post on the battery.

On a stock compression motor and a OEM starter, you can get away with grounding straight to the chassis using a 2 ga wire, but you should really use 1 ga for the ground. If you plan on running the ground all the way, 2 ga for the main ground wire is too small to carry the correct amount of amperage from the battery in the back of the car to the front of the car and the starter. The correct way to do it, especially for built or higher compresion motors, is to use 1 ga all the way from the negative post on the battery to the front. I used 2 ga in my 97 TA ran all the way from the battery to a ground dist. block, and then 2 ga from the dist. block to the starter and the motor would slowly turn over. I went and bought 1 ga, installed it and the motor cranked over just fine.

I have about 40 feet of brand new both ground and postive 1 gauge Sting Pro wire left. Let me know if you decide to go that route.

[Red20170]

Thanks for the help...