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Installing relocation brackets:

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  • Installing relocation brackets:

    I know I am being an idiot about this but does anyone know if there is an instructional paper about installing these? I bought them from another board member and there is no instructions. I suppose it should be common sense

    Also, both brackets look the same, in other words they are not unique to each side?

    They came with the one bolt like normal, am I supposed to use the existing bolts?

    I know this is stupid but someone please help me out.

    '95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
    Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.

    13.685@102.11

  • #2
    I think on the bolt-ons you need one bolt in the original hole to bolt the new bracket to the original mounting position and the other bolt to hold the LCAs into the lowered bracket. I think those should be welded in, though.

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    • #3
      I agree with Kev. The LCA relocation brackets will be much more effective if they are welded in. You can always bolt them in first, and then weld them up.

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      • #4
        When you remove your LCA, you will have that bolt to use to rebolt it to the relo bracket.

        If I recall correctly, There should be a sleeve that goes into the stock location bracket. You slip the relo bracket over the stock bracket from the back, put the new bolt through one end of the relo bracket, then through the sleeve (which is now insided the stock bracket), then through the hole in the other side of the relo bracket. The sleeve keeps the bolt from crushing the brackets. This is by memory, because my brackets were installed by Steve Spohn while I watched.

        This is a photo from the Spohn website, showing the sleeve. Not sure what year it is, because there is an e-brake bracket under the nut, and there isn't anything like that on my 94.



        If they are weld-in brackets, and not the BMR bolt-ins:

        Grind the paint and any rust off the weld areas on the stock brackets before you put the relo brackets on. Make sure the relo bracket is very snug against the back of the stock bracket, and weld the edges of the relo bracket all around the edges of the bracket, wherever it contacts the stock bracket.

        Spray the welds with low gloss black paint to prevent excessive rust.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          They are BMR bolt ins and Spohn control arms. That picture helps a lot.

          '95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
          Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.

          13.685@102.11

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