plug wires

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I have a problem with my SLP headers and the #5 wire (Taylor Spiro Pros 8mm). Ever since I had the flanges cut down, the #3 and #5 primaries are hugging on the fire sleeve and burning through. So I need an extra long wire to tuck into the loom under the primaries, then wrap back around and go into the plug...staying as far away as the header as possible. I guess then there are a few possibilites:
- Buy more wire and cut/crimp to elongate the wire?
- Buy and individual wire that's 6-8" longer than the current one (if they sell individual wires)?
- Use an 2 year old 7 mm OEM wire (maybe on that was previously used on #7 for the extra length)?
Which one is the best route? The cheapest is obviously to use the existing 7mm wire, but I'm not sure if a mixmatch is ok?
Thanks in advance

[badz409]

I had misery with that wire till I bought taylor wires and plastic brackets, routed them over the valve covers then down / a firesleeve on it. Tha valve cover hold down bolts will need to be 1/2" longer /a flat washer, looks nice too.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

I have a problem with my SLP headers and the #5 wire (Taylor Spiro Pros 8mm). Ever since I had the flanges cut down, the #3 and #5 primaries are hugging on the fire sleeve and burning through. So I need an extra long wire to tuck into the loom under the primaries, then wrap back around and go into the plug...staying as far away as the header as possible. I guess then there are a few possibilites:
- Buy more wire and cut/crimp to elongate the wire?
- Buy and individual wire that's 6-8" longer than the current one (if they sell individual wires)?
- Use an 2 year old 7 mm OEM wire (maybe on that was previously used on #7 for the extra length)?
Which one is the best route? The cheapest is obviously to use the existing 7mm wire, but I'm not sure if a mixmatch is ok?
Thanks in advance

I had the same prob, and I used 2 sets of wires to get the right lengths - I routed that #5 away from teh header and secured it up and it has been fine - I never had a ehader wire burn up, but I don't know how much your flanges were taekn down.. Next time around, I will just build custom wires.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Interesting. Thanks for the tip Kevin. I guess 2 sets of wires or building a custom wire is the way to go.
My flanges were taken down quite a bit...at least way more than I expected.
It may be hard to tell in the pic but here's the
Before
After

It may be 1/16" or close to 1/8" of a difference. Before though, it was really close to the firesleeve. Now, it's touching it all the time. The boot is already getting brittle and starting to burn off in some places. I should probably get this done soon, or not drive it until it's fixed.

badz409, did you do OVC wire routing for all your wires?

[zer0signal667]

I had misery with that wire till I bought taylor wires and plastic brackets, routed them over the valve covers then down / a firesleeve on it. Tha valve cover hold down bolts will need to be 1/2" longer /a flat washer, looks nice too.

Another vote for this technique. Factory routing is a pain, over the covers is much easier. My #5 is close to the primary too, I rigged up a sleeve (more like a heat shield) to fit over the primary though, rather than the wire.

[Injuneer]

Over the top, tieing the two wires together with nylon ties (one looped around both wires, the other wrapped around the first tie to separate the wires), then flaring out to the two individual plugs with the fiberglass fabric "fire sleeves". If necessary, use the extra screw hole in the head to atach a small custom made bracket to hold the wires away from the headers.

These are nice fat Taylor 409's (10.4mm), obviously a different application, but you can see the above method with the nylon ties. A buddy of mine bent me some aluminum brackets to attach to the extra screw holes in the heads, but the wires were stiff enough that they didn't move any closer to the headers, even without using the brackets.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Thanks guys, but I'm not sure if I need OVC routing
I just have the problem with the 1 wire. The rest have plenty of clearance everywhere. I'll see how the longer wire goes. If I just can't manage to route it right, then I guess I'll have to go OVC.
Fred, everytime I look at your setup, I drool Simply amazing

[Injuneer]

Thanks guys, but I'm not sure if I need OVC routing
I just have the problem with the 1 wire. The rest have plenty of clearance everywhere. I'll see how the longer wire goes. If I just can't manage to route it right, then I guess I'll have to go OVC.
Fred, everytime I look at your setup, I drool Simply amazing

Look at the date on the picture, its ancient history..... that Electromotive SDI/Opti-Eliminator is long gone. So is the NOS 5176 dry kit and the JBA headers.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Fred, if I recall correctly, are you running AS&M now? If so, just out of curiousity, how does the clearances (between plug wires, etc) compare between the 1 5/8" JBA vs the 1 3/4" AS&Ms?

[Injuneer]

I've never had any problems with plug wire clearance on the AS&M's. I don't use any sleeves. But my routing is so different (from the bottom now) that there really isn't any way to compare the two.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Interesting. Thanks for the tip Kevin. I guess 2 sets of wires or building a custom wire is the way to go.
My flanges were taken down quite a bit...at least way more than I expected.
It may be hard to tell in the pic but here's the
Before
After

It may be 1/16" or close to 1/8" of a difference. Before though, it was really close to the firesleeve. Now, it's touching it all the time. The boot is already getting brittle and starting to burn off in some places. I should probably get this done soon, or not drive it until it's fixed.

badz409, did you do OVC wire routing for all your wires?

Mine doesn't touch the firesleeve at any point, and I never scorched a boot in the 10k miles they were on there. I use the Accell 300+ race wires and some fiberglass sleeves on about half of the boots. It all seems to hold up fine. I also use corrugated split-loom on all the wires, then I tie-wrap them together. If you do that, you have to be careful of 5 & 7 because of the possible crossfire. Make sure they are well insulated before tying those two together or it could hurt your engine.

Not sure what is available, but you may want to research shorter spark plugs for your application.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Well, I replaced the wire with a longer one. It has plenty of clearance now. I don't even need a firesleeve anymore. It's a good thing I got it done today.

[fastTa]

So is everything kosher with the motor now? What ended up happening with sealing the headers?

[Craig 94 TA GT]

So is everything kosher with the motor now? What ended up happening with sealing the headers?

Well not quite. Aluminum foil is sealing it for now. Gonna seal it with the arc welder when I take the header off. But, I'm to remove the heads to fix the bolt hole...and they'll be off to Lloyd Elliot. Looking at LE2 or LE3 porting but have a month or two to think about it

[fastTa]

Well not quite. Aluminum foil is sealing it for now. Gonna seal it with the arc welder when I take the header off. But, I'm to remove the heads to fix the bolt hole...and they'll be off to Lloyd Elliot. Looking at LE2 or LE3 porting but have a month or two to think about it

If you are wanting a maximum effort head, I would go for the LE3. According to their website, they are only getting 275 CFM out of their Stage 3 porting. That is relatively low. So this means they are not going all out on the porting and thus keeping relatively good street manners.