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Installing M6 tranny

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  • Installing M6 tranny

    Well I am thinking about taking the challenge and fixing the tranny (clutch fork). Any of you guys have any input or suggestions? Also while I am there any suggestions for the clutch and pressure plate. If I can save on weight and improve on things that would be great. I would like to set it up to do autocross, road racing.

    thanks for your help guys.
    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

  • #2
    Two things, get the car as high as you can off the ground. Take the oil pressure sender off before letting down the back of the tranny or you may be buying a new one. You can get a deep well socket made for the sending unit from your local auto parts store. A regular deep well isn't deep enough.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      ok so it sounds like its a pretty straight forward deal .. nothing funky.
      97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
      In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by soCalTA
        ok so it sounds like its a pretty straight forward deal .. nothing funky.
        No. The hardest thing to the whole job is getting the oil pressure sender back in.

        I'm not sure how your exhaust differs from mine being you have a dual cat car. You may have to do more there than I do with that. Everything else is pretty easy. I could have mine out in 2 hours without being in a hurry.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

        Comment


        • #5
          ok great .. then all I will need to do is find a replacement/upgrade to the clutch/pressure plat. I figure since I am there why not. Maybe a new throw out bearing.

          I think the pilot bearing can remain.
          97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
          In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

          Comment


          • #6
            Im sure that removing the pressure sending unit is a good insurance, however I have had my tranny and clutch out at least six times and never broke mine.
            I have only heard of a few cases where someone broke the part.
            Just leave it in, if it breaks then address it at that time.

            Other tips:
            Yes get the car as high as possible on jackstands.

            You will need at least a four foot extension to remove the top two tranny bolts. Try to find a one piece very long extension, avoid chaining together shorter extensions cause they will twist and you wont have enough torque to pop the bolts loose. First remove the lower tranny chassis bracket so you can lower ther tranny a few inches and you will be able to easily get these two bolts.

            Dont bother buying a tranny jack or adapter, you can build a a small wooden cradle out of 2X6 lumber and bolt it to your floor jack. An adapter that bolts to the floor jack is useless unless the car is a good two feet in the air cause there is no room to get it under the car. The cradle makes the removal of the tranny so easy my mother could pull it out.

            The entire process is very straight forward so go for it.

            While you are in there put a clutch in and resurface the flywheel and replace the pilot.

            You will get a new TOB with any new clutch.

            The wet toilet paper trick will get the pilot out. Soak some toilet paper in a glass of water and stuff as much as possible into the hole. Once you cant put any more in hammer a 3/8 extension into the hole. Keep hammering more wet TP into the hole and the pilot will come out in less than five minutes. I have done this many times.

            Thats about all the handy dandy tips for pulling the tranny or replacing the clutch.
            1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
            Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
            Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

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