swaped out cams and know the crank pulley wont go all the way back on, took to shop and they said the bolt hole was stripped and the heli coil kept poppin out when they tryed to pull the crank the rest of the way in, and said i would have to get a new cranshaft but theires no way im spending that much money over a bolt that wont go all the way in, theres got to be a way to fix this what should i do?
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What bolt are you referring to.
The crank hub presses on, and the crank pulley attaches to the hub w/ 3 bolts. If you mean one of those holes, you can just get a new hub.
Randy99 TA "RBLUTA" - NBM, M6, Whisper Lid, SLP Fan Switch, 160* Thermo, SLP LM, BMR STB & LCA's.
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93 Formula "FRMLAV8" -383 Stroker -
LT1's have a press on hub and the damper bolts to that.......many other models have a central bolt that secures the damper.
If it were a steel crank, I've seen the bolt hole welded and retapped. With a cast crank, I would try to have the crank retapped with the next larger size threads and bolt. You'll most likely need to open up the damper's center hole to compensate but it should work.
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yea its a center bolt, its from a 93 lt1 , ill try retapping it or going up a bolt size and hopefully it works, thanks alotComment
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Retap. Then heat the hub up as hot as you can before trying to install it on a cold crankshaft.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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