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new opti or not?

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  • #1

    new opti or not?

    going to insatll headers in a week or so. at the same time i'm going to throw in plugs and wires. my 95 Z28 has the oem opti. my car has 111,xxx miles on it. my question is. should i replace the whole opti unit or just the cap and rotor? msd makes a unit i can get for around $125 shipped on ebay.
    what should i do ??? the oem unit is an original and running strong absolutly no problems with it.
    ed
    1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully "
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  • #2
    msd cap +rotor

    i would go with the msd,dont know if its better but it looks nicer.

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    • #3
      if you do decide to change the opti it would be a good idea to put a new water pump in your car too.
      1994 formula A4 w/ 84,XXX MI, bone stock except MSD wires and NGK TR5 plugs

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      • #4
        was thinking the same thing .new water pump.
        guess i'm going to do AC delco opti and water pump.
        $229 opti and $168 for water pump.
        good deals? both brand new !! ac delco !
        ed
        1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully "

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        • #5
          On an 11 year old engine with 100K+ miles, it make little sense to change only the cap and rotor. The rear 1/2 of the Opti has several parts that can and do fail....

          -optical sensor electronics become sensitive to heat
          -rust from cheap bearing support clogs up the optical sensor and blinds it
          -cheap bearing fails
          -rubber seal in harness connector tower fails, allowing water to enter unit.

          Any of of these can be fatal. So it makes little sense to replace only the cap/rotor on a high mileage Opti.

          On the other hand, if you have no noticable performance problems, why change any part of the Opti?
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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