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any tips for lt1 header install?

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  • any tips for lt1 header install?

    going to install pacesetter mid coated headers. any tips to make it any easier. jack car up ? what about wire looms ? i want the wires safe from the headers. going to install msd 8.5 wires. any and all info very much appreciated.
    ed
    1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully "

  • #2
    PBlaster.

    The only stuff to use. Don't drive the car for a few days prior to the install and twice a day hit the bolts with the stuff and follow the directions. I even start the car the day before to let the heat expand and contract the metals, then let it cool and one more shot of PBlaster. The fasteners come apart much easier, there are fewer problems with breaking bolts, damaging threads, etc. Make sure you use anti seize on the header bolts going into the head and use locking header bolts.

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    • #3
      I didn't use PB on mine, it didn't need it. All the bolts came off fairly easily.

      Just get in and throw down, not many tips I could offer, personally. I just went in and did it. But when you're routing on the passenger side, you will have to put your wires the same way the stockers get, behind the ac pulley, it's a PITA, and you gotta get every wire through there and get them clamped down so the belt doesn't rub them.

      On the drivers side, watch the plug second closest to the firewall. Mine took a lot of heat. I put some header wrap around that one. And if you plan on reusing your spark plugs, make sure you're careful when you're pulling the headers. Any plugs that you can pull, PULL THEM. You will break them when you drop the new headers in.

      I broke a brand new NGK doing my install, because I put all 4 in on one side before I put the header in. Big no no, you gotta put in 3, clamp the header down, then install the fourth and final one.

      Have fun. I enjoyed doing my header install.
      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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      • #4
        We fit the 8.5 mm wires into the stock wire holders fine. I sprayed the bolts down with penetrater the night before which helped out a little bit. Also, make sure you get a good set of Fel-Pros or Percy's header gaskets to make sure you have no leak. Im in need of doing this because the kit gaskets were crap and they have a slight leak. (very annoying under throttle) Im going to be installing the dead soft aluminum percy gaskets soon. They're 39.99 at summit racing.
        1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by blackthunder50
          They're 39.99 at summit racing.
          I got mine at Advance aka discount Auto Parts.... $34.95 plus tax.

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          • #6
            Since you are installing headers, dont use anything other than OVC plug wires.
            I went with the Elite wires and could not be happier with them.

            PB blaster the manifold bolts, mine came out rather easy.

            Good gaskets a must, I got Fel-pro 1406's for $16 at Autozone.

            High temp anti-sieze on the new bolts.

            Remove the dipstick befor installing the new right side header. This varys from header to header but I had to with mine.

            Make sure the right side header does not come real close to the K-member or get the grinder out.

            Lots of beer and Bandaids.
            1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
            Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
            Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

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            • #7
              I'm using the MSD 8.5's on my car with the Pacesetter longtube headers. No problems, just make sure they're tied back so they won't contact the headers. You'll be spending plenty of time under the car so look at all the wiring and heat wrap what you can if you think it will come close to the headers. Take out the plugs, the starter, the oil dipstick, the oil filter, you might need to unbolt the steering linkage(no big deal) and have some new hacksaw blades ready to go just in case.
              69 Z28 with JL8 factory 4 wheel disc brakes, crossram, transistor ignition, radio delete, heater delete - being restored
              70 SS 396 L78 documented, #'s matching
              2000 SS Camaro daily beater

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