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Ignition wires, O2 Sensor and Spark Plugs.

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  • Ignition wires, O2 Sensor and Spark Plugs.

    Hey guys, I have a 1993 Trans Am with 121k and it has been in storage over the winter with a start biweekly. Well I took the car out today and it will not go under 2 grand it just stutters(it's always some what been like this but not this bad), I had it WOT around a turn in 1st(I think most of you know know what the consequneces of doing that is) and nothing until 2500 rpm or so. I think the engine is running rich and may be misfiring. I was planning on doing a tuneup in spring anyways but it's getting warm out.

    I want to replace the ignition wires, which ones do you guys recommend? Are these any good?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Accel...QQcmdZViewItem

    I plan to seafoam it as well, so I'd need a new o2 sensor probably anyway.(I couldn't even find these on ebay I don't know what to look for ) Lastly what are good plugs? NGK TR55?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-I...QQcmdZViewItem

    or these?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-N...QQcmdZViewItem

    Thanks a ton guys, I hope to fix these problems before it's back on the road


    UPDATE!

    Turned out to be the ignition wires! I changed the spark plugs, map sensor, and o2 sensors. Then last night I was in my garage checking for vacuum leaks and the garage light is on a timer and it went off, obviously the car was running and I noticed an ignition wire jumping shooting sparks all over. Tonight I replaced them and the passenger side ones were factory(123k) from what I could tell and the others were repaced at some point... they were "Packard's", either way my car is running like a champ and I'm so happy!

  • #2
    None of those items are correct for the LT1. Whether they will actually work or not I don't know, but why run the risk when you don't need to?

    The NGK TR55 plug is widely recommended here and it is available in a few different core materials. I'm running the Iridiums on my Z, #7164, but there's also the copper, #3951; platinum, #3403; and laser-platinum (whatever that is lol), #7862.

    As for the plug wires, unless you plan on widening the channels behind the alternator and using aftermarket looms, anything above an 8mm wire won't really fit. Even the 8mm wires are tight. I'm running Taylor Spiro-Pro's, #74026.

    As for getting your tune-up parts off of eBay, I wouldn't recommend it. Its nothing against eBay, but you're not really going to save that much on parts that really aren't that expensive to begin with and the hassle if something goes wrong can be worse than with a parts or speed store. I ended up going through Summit with these parts...

    NGK Iridium TR55 Spark Plug

    Taylor Spiro-Pro Plug Wires

    As for the O2 sensors, Summit has NGK sensors here.

    Hope this helps.
    Steve
    79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
    87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
    93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

    Comment


    • #3
      You need two O2 sensors. I wouldn't even look at the NGK O2 sensors. The best results seem to be had with the genuine AC/Delco (now Delphi?) OEM O2 sensors. You can get them at a deep discount at the sources listed on Shoebox's web page. Part #'s are there too:

      http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

      NGK claims extended tolerance to leaded fuels for their O2 sensors. One of the magazines (GMHTP??) tested them with leaded fuel and one of them failed immediately.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks. I cant find the part #'s though.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Cacophony
          Thanks. I cant find the part #'s though.
          1993 O2 Sensor (non-heated)
          AC-Delco #AFS21
          GM Part #25166816

          Comment


          • #6
            Does anyone have a recommended torque spec for installing Autolite copper plugs into my 1997 cast iron LT1?
            1997 Pontiac Firebird T/A WS6
            Black, stock

            Comment


            • #7
              Why does your LT1 have cast iron heads? Did you swap in heads from an Impala SS/Roadmaster/Fleetwood engine? Why?
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Injuneer
                Why does your LT1 have cast iron heads? Did you swap in heads from an Impala SS/Roadmaster/Fleetwood engine? Why?
                I guess those heads are aluminum. So, does anyone know about torquing spark plugs into aluminum heads?

                1997 Pontiac Firebird T/A WS6
                Black, stock

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by rhummer37
                  I guess those heads are aluminum. So, does anyone know about torquing spark plugs into aluminum heads?

                  Approx. 15 ft./lbs.
                  Steve
                  79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                  87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                  93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                  http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You're going to find you can't get a torque wrench on most of them anyway. This is an area where common sense prevails.
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Injuneer
                      You're going to find you can't get a torque wrench on most of them anyway. This is an area where common sense prevails.
                      And Band-aids are a must!! lol
                      Steve
                      79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                      87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                      93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                      http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        So I got my Autolite 605 plugs last night, and tonight I'm going to get new wires, fuel filter, oil and O2 sensors from Autozone. Last night I added seafoam for the motor and the gas tank. Today I'll finish it off with running some in the oil. After I'm adding all the new stuff. I really hope this solves the problem!

                        Also while I was looking where all the plugs were last night around the motor, what do I notice between the exhaust manifold down below the alternator? A wire boot! Not hooked up! I have no idea how long I've been driving it like that. I snapped it up but there was still no power below 2500. It may be corroded or something, they're worth replacing anyway, they probably the factory ones . Also I noticed MAP sensor is cracked, do you think this may be causing erratic readings?

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                        • #13
                          Also took out the rich condition.

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