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Car is still backfiring...Could it be detonation?

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  • Car is still backfiring...Could it be detonation?

    Alright, yesterday i talked with a friend of mine i work with at the shop and i took him for a ride. i showed him how it backfires at 4200 rpm under load..i made a mistake, it is not 5800, its lower, 4200-4300 rpm when it starts backfiring. so we sat in the car scratching our heads and he brought up some interesting points. it could be detonation. if it was the optispark, it would act like this all the time, right? i have no problem driving it throughout the lower rpm, completely normal.
    Also, i want to make a point that i am using 87 octane, i really didnt know it was suppose to take premium fuel until i read a thread in here. But the thing is i have been running 87 octane since i got the car in 04. Could this be the cause of the problem maybe?
    Since we're on that subject, he also told me that the fuel companies put this additive in the fuel for winter...maybe this could be my problem? Has anyone else heard of this?
    I guess i really want to figure this problem out before race season, i am going to be putting a lot of time, effort and money into my car here at the end of this month and i want it to be perfect. if <u>Anyone</u> knows or even has an idea, please shout it out.

    Thanks for your help
    -Jeff

  • #2
    Many areas of the country mandate "oxygenated" fuels for the winter months. They should not cause misfiring or backfiring problems. They will show a loss of fuel mileage.

    "Backfiring" can mean different things to different people. A true backfire is an explosion that occurs in the intake manifold.... the result of incorrect timing or a sticking valve igniting the air fuel mixture in the manifold. Then there is the combustion that occurs in the exhaust pipe when you have excessive misfires, rich condition leaking valves, etc.

    Which of those are you experiencing? Or, is it simpy the engine misfiring, stumbling and "coughing" when you hit higher RPM? Or possibly just some "surging" as the power drops off and returns erratically (knock retard)?
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

    Comment


    • #3
      well it only occurs when the engine has load, when i am moving..if i sit with the car in park/neutral, i can rev all the way up to my rev limiter. But when i am accelerating hard, i hear little "bang bang bang bang" up at the engine. this one has me baffled, i hope this info helped you. if it doesnt, ask some more questions so i can explain my problem even more.


      Originally posted by Injuneer
      Many areas of the country mandate "oxygenated" fuels for the winter months. They should not cause misfiring or backfiring problems. They will show a loss of fuel mileage.

      "Backfiring" can mean different things to different people. A true backfire is an explosion that occurs in the intake manifold.... the result of incorrect timing or a sticking valve igniting the air fuel mixture in the manifold. Then there is the combustion that occurs in the exhaust pipe when you have excessive misfires, rich condition leaking valves, etc.

      Which of those are you experiencing? Or, is it simpy the engine misfiring, stumbling and "coughing" when you hit higher RPM? Or possibly just some "surging" as the power drops off and returns erratically (knock retard)?
      -Jeff

      Comment


      • #4
        u better hope it aint detonation, or u could have a serious problem
        2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

        old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

        Comment


        • #5
          Mind you im not nearly as experienced as alot of guys on this forum. But it sounds like your car has a misfire. My 97 V6 camaro was missing only under load and while the engine was warmed up. Turned out to be a coil pack. The point that im trying to make is just because your car seems to be missing under load doesnt mean it probably isnt the opti. An engine missing can be be caused by faulty injector, bad coil, bad opti, bad plugs, bad wires, bad fuel pump, bad ICM, etc. And as far as i know the symptom to any of these problems can show up at certain temps or rpm ranges. If it turns out to be the opti put in a new water pump while your in there.
          1994 formula A4 w/ 84,XXX MI, bone stock except MSD wires and NGK TR5 plugs

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          • #6
            Change your fuel filter too it's cheap and will effect the engine at high RPM's.
            I thinks it's a thing most often over looked.


            LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

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            • #7
              I think you already answered your own question....so you might want to try running premium gasoline instead of the 87.

              Detonation occurs in almost all motors on a regular basis and is in most cases not harmful to parts especially with a knock sensor system. Audible detonation is the worse kind of detonation and can be caused by many things. Pre-ignition is the part breaker and is what a lot of people confuse with detonation.

              Good discussion on pre-ignition and detonation:
              http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13941

              Comment


              • #8
                alright guys, since the car is running just peachy when cruising...even when i get on it a little bit like up to 3500, i will keep driving it. i have to use the full tank of 87 octane i put in it...im such a dumb you know what..it runs perfectly fine right now, only when i clime up the rpm. I cant believe i was doing that to my engine, i would die if i blew my engine, i love my car to much to do that...~obsessive...~ im glad i am going to be ripping apart my top end now, i can now see what damage occured to the valves and pistons if any so heres the deal and i need some back up..

                i am replacing the whole top end, heads, valves everything on that...cam, timing chain, opti, injectors...so on

                now i will need to look at my fuel pump...just changed my fuel filter not to long ago, im doing my opti...didnt MSD come out with their new optispark?..changing the wires...just replaced the plugs with AC delco last year, might take em out, look em over and sand blast them..i spent 75 bucks on 8 of those, just not going to throw them away

                but before i do all of this, i am going to go to school and hook my car up to the scanner and see if i have a miss firefire..i might be able to check for detonation...i use a TechII GM scanner, the best out there... oh oh, and i am also going to switch to premium...that could be my whole problem...or what caused my problem..87...this is why you read your owners manual.. alright guys and gals, post back to tell me more, i need to get this stupid problem fixed before race season.
                -Jeff

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                • #9
                  get a flat peice of metal, take a ball peen hammer and hammer (with the round side) in the middle of the metal. now pretend ur rods are ball peen hammers and the metal is ur bearing, thats what detonation does, and if u have that, i wouldnt drive it much longer if u love ur rods
                  2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

                  old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 88bird5spd
                    get a flat peice of metal, take a ball peen hammer and hammer (with the round side) in the middle of the metal. now pretend ur rods are ball peen hammers and the metal is ur bearing, thats what detonation does, and if u have that, i wouldnt drive it much longer if u love ur rods
                    That is not accurate information. You really should read the thread that I posted.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 94formulaLT1
                      alright guys, since the car is running just peachy when cruising...even when i get on it a little bit like up to 3500, i will keep driving it. i have to use the full tank of 87 octane i put in it...im such a dumb you know what..it runs perfectly fine right now, only when i clime up the rpm. I cant believe i was doing that to my engine, i would die if i blew my engine, i love my car to much to do that...~obsessive...~ im glad i am going to be ripping apart my top end now, i can now see what damage occured to the valves and pistons if any so heres the deal and i need some back up..

                      i am replacing the whole top end, heads, valves everything on that...cam, timing chain, opti, injectors...so on

                      now i will need to look at my fuel pump...just changed my fuel filter not to long ago, im doing my opti...didnt MSD come out with their new optispark?..changing the wires...just replaced the plugs with AC delco last year, might take em out, look em over and sand blast them..i spent 75 bucks on 8 of those, just not going to throw them away

                      but before i do all of this, i am going to go to school and hook my car up to the scanner and see if i have a miss firefire..i might be able to check for detonation...i use a TechII GM scanner, the best out there... oh oh, and i am also going to switch to premium...that could be my whole problem...or what caused my problem..87...this is why you read your owners manual.. alright guys and gals, post back to tell me more, i need to get this stupid problem fixed before race season.
                      Switching to premium should show you a significant change. Run some through the system then get it on the scanner. You won't be able to actually see pre-ignition or detonation on the scanner, but you will be able to look at things like your Long Term Fuel Trims(LTFT's), O2 Sensor crossover counts, O2 voltages, knock retard, etc., not to mention any codes present. It will give you an idea of what's going on.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fastTA
                        Switching to premium should show you a significant change. Run some through the system then get it on the scanner. You won't be able to actually see pre-ignition or detonation on the scanner, but you will be able to look at things like your Long Term Fuel Trims(LTFT's), O2 Sensor crossover counts, O2 voltages, knock retard, etc., not to mention any codes present. It will give you an idea of what's going on.

                        Thanks guys, i will try to get it on scanner today...i guess it just makes me mad..oh well i guess this is what i get when i get a nice car with a nice engine...trouble.
                        -Jeff

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by fastTA
                          That is not accurate information. You really should read the thread that I posted.
                          my bad, was a long day at work
                          2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

                          old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have seen instances where the ignition coil driver module was getting an intermittant signal and causes an ignition breakup under load. This can be mis-diagnosed as a plug and wire or optispark problem. It also will appear regardless of fuel quality. It would be worth your time to check the harness connection to the coil driver module located right above the coil on the front of the driver's side head. Spraying an electronic contact cleaner and checking the tightness of the pins and contacts within the connector are the fix. There are also reports of an overheating driver module causing the same symptom that many fix by spacing the coil and module away from the head by using a few washers on the mounting studs.

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                            • #15
                              UH....HELP!


                              Has anyone read my post yet? Marked "Backfiring" I need help with my problem as well.
                              Thanks
                              Suffering backfires.

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