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PCM Pin # for O2 sensor?

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  • #1

    PCM Pin # for O2 sensor?

    I am installing an Air?Fuel ratio gauge on my car. I know that I need to tap the purple / white wire per my research. Does anyone know what pin # on the PCM to tap? There are several purple / white wires. I want to hit the driver's side O2 - sensor 1 - I have removed the 2nd set of O2s (LT headers)


    (As an aside I know this will be just a "light show" for now - I am going to upgrade to the LC-1 wideband when the mods warrant it)
    Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



    Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

    Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Casey, seriously don't bother with the Autometer gauge on a narrowband O2 sensor.

    If you really want to accurately keep tabs on your a/f ratio, go ahead and get the LC-1 kit. It is quality and it is relatively cheap compared to the others.

    The cool thing about the LC-1 is that you can wire it to work as a wideband or narrowband. Here is a wiring diagram using HP Tuners:

    http://www.audiohelix.com/tuning-documents/lc1/lc1.htm

    Comment

    • #3
      Yeah I know - I didn't before I bought it but do now.

      My plan was to get it hooked up and working and get the LC1 upgrade for it when I have the funds. I really wanted the water temp gauge but did not like the look of the single gauge pod - so I needed a second gauge. I picked the wrong one for now. Should have gone with oil temp or fuel pressure but I want it to at least look like it is working
      Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



      Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

      Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

      Comment

      • #4
        Not only what Kevin mentioned, but you are only going to "see" the driver's side bank. You'll need either two gauges or a switch to toggle back and forth between banks.

        Comment

        • #5
          I needed to do more research before I decided on that gauge. Oh well it is hooked up and "works" - lol. Looks nice even though it dowsn't help anything. It will in the future when I upgrade to a wideband because I am ready to spray this thing! This power thing is addictive (and expensive)!
          Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



          Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

          Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

          Comment

          • #6
            It's very addictive. Just wait.....it gets worse and worse and worse........

            Wasn't there a post by Fred in here?

            Comment

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