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  • placed my order, what next?

    Ok, so i finally placed my order with summit for a SLP CAI . And instead of headers i think i'll do some suspension mods next. What would you guys suggest first? I was thinking Panhard Bar. Open to suggestions ...
    2006 Saturn Ion Redline
    2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder

  • #2
    Sub-frame connectors first.

    Lower control arms next.

    Just my .02.
    Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



    Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

    Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

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    • #3
      Originally posted by casey02ws6
      Sub-frame connectors first.

      Lower control arms next.

      Just my .02.
      I was really looking for more or less a straight line performer. Would i really need the sub-frame connectors for that?
      2006 Saturn Ion Redline
      2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder

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      • #4
        yes subframe connecters help you car in almost every area, in your case instead of a hard launch just putting load on the rear end you'll help spead it out to the front too. which should help you 60 ft times a little... but only a little the real benifit is if you put down crazy power you don't have to worry about to much flex in your uni-body car.
        1990 Eagle talon TSI- daily driver

        78' firebird formula -350/350- stock...now dead

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        • #5
          Personally, I would go with rear lower control arms with upgraded bushings and lower control arm relocation brackets. That will help in the traction department.

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          • #6
            I'd say go with the SFCs, new LCAs and the reloc. brackets. You've gotta pull the front bolt from each of the LCAs to install the SFCs, so what's one more bolt on each side? You'll also notice a big difference in everyday driving and, for those days you wanna hit the curves, you'll enjoy the stiffer handling. They're not that expensive and the payoff is great. My personal suggestions are...

            SLP Bolt-on SFCs for Verts $285 on sale from SLP
            Spohn Tubular LCAs with Poly bushings $115 from Spohn ($155 if you opt for the Chrome-moly LCAs)
            Spohn LCA relocation brackets $65 from Spohn

            Hope this helps
            Steve
            79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
            87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
            93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
            http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

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            • #7
              Yes you guys have been very helpful. So when should i do panhard bar and a torque arm? Plus should it be adjustable or non?

              P.S. my target h.p. is only going to be about 400
              2006 Saturn Ion Redline
              2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by ryan34
                Yes you guys have been very helpful. So when should i do panhard bar and a torque arm? Plus should it be adjustable or non?

                P.S. my target h.p. is only going to be about 400
                Well, if all you are really concerned with is straight-line performance, then you really don't need to worry about the panhard rod. The torque arm I would do the next time you forsee taking off your stock one (e.g. springs, shocks, etc.). I'm a big believer in upgrade it as it comes off .

                Now, if you do care about the handling of the car, then the panhard rod would be a good and cheap mod to do next. It will help keep the rear from laterally moving around as your corner. But, as I said, pick it up if you care about handling, not just straight-line performance.
                Steve
                79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

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