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  • #1

    Bending Brake / Clutch Pedals...

    Hey Everyone,
    I just got a set of custom kick panels made. They house a 6.5" component speaker set. Unfortunately, they stick out very far & my size 13 foot barely has enough room to fit between the brake pedal & speaker now. Im trying to think of ways to increase the room in there. The kick panels are custom made of fiberglass & carpet so modifying them is not an option. Is it possible/safe to bend the clutch & brake pedal over a bit to increase clearance? Will this weaken the brake pedal? Any other ideas?
    No F-Body right now
    Tags: None
  • #2
    You can bend the clutch and brake pedal levers. All the work is just pulling them out. I always use a rose bud tip on an oxy/acety torch and get it glowing red hot, then you can bend it very easily. Allow the lever to cool on it's own. Do not submerse the hot lever in water because you can make it brittle and prone to cracking.

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    • #3
      If it were me I would consider removing the pedal assembly and cutting then welding in new metal to relocate them over a bit. But that is just me.
      1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
      Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
      Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

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      • #4
        I would not even consider messing with the pedals. They are placed where they are to feel natural and intuitive to find. I'd hate be be in a emergency situation, go for the brake and have my foot slip off the edge because the padal was moved over.

        safety is more important than speakers. I'd return the kick panels.
        Tracy
        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
        Current Mods:
        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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        • #5
          Originally posted by TraceZ
          I would not even consider messing with the pedals. They are placed where they are to feel natural and intuitive to find. I'd hate be be in a emergency situation, go for the brake and have my foot slip off the edge because the padal was moved over.

          safety is more important than speakers. I'd return the kick panels.
          Yeah, I really agree with TraceZ
          1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
          Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
          Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

          Comment

          • #6
            Moving the pedals is just the same as adjusting the tilt on your steering wheel or adjusting the position of your seat back. It is all personal preference and you adapt to it very quickly.

            We have moved dozens of pedals over in cars and it is actually fairly common to do so in hot rods and custom cars and street cars. You adapt to the "new" pedal position in a matter of days. No big deal at all.

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            • #7
              And no one except me drives it. I think I look into leaving the Clutch alone and just moveing the brake 1/2-3/4" over towards the gas. That will give me the clearance I need.
              No F-Body right now

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