does anyone know where i can find an overdrive alternator pulley only to go along with my underdrive pulley kit??
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1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. SLP exhaust no cats. just got the car, list will grow
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March make O/D alternator pullies, as part of their "Power and Amp" series.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor -
Which is what I use.Originally posted by Injuneer
Works great for automatics, you might be able to do without the overdrive pulley with a six speed. The real issue manifests itself at idle. Auto transmission cars get the rpms pulled down lower when put into gear, sticks are able to keep a few more revs and in many cases there are no charging issues at idle. I had to use it in my automatic WS6 due to the idle charge rate. If I put it into neutral, it was fine. Since I wasn't going to constantly take it out of gear, I simply added the overdrive pulley. No problems since.
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yeah, i'm concererned becase when the car comes to idle, the charge gauge drops, and it doesnt go to where it should until like..1500 rpm's. did anyone else see a change in behavior in their charge gauge after the underdrive kit?1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. SLP exhaust no cats. just got the car, list will growComment
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I did actually as well. Like Joe said, they can create some issues at idle when in gear. I have to be sitting at idle, in gear, with my foot on the brake for about 10 seconds before the charge starts to drop enough to bother me and my car. If I'm going to be sitting for a while, I'll put in in neutral. If I come to a light, I usually do the same unless it is about to change.Originally posted by 6spdLT1Bird
I don't put too many miles on my car so it really doesn't bother me. If I drove it everyday, I would probably go with the O/D kit.black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to comeComment
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I had problems with an M6, but that's because I had the ASP 25% U/D integrated pulley/damper, and their 15% U/D alternator pulley. At the stock 800rpm idle, with any sort of load on the electrical system, the volt meter would head for the red.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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ahh haa!! found one. they have lots of dress up stuff for 93 and up LT-1's
http://www.enginedressshop.com1995 Firebird Formula. LT-1 6 speed, underdrive system, k&n cold air intake. SLP exhaust no cats. just got the car, list will growComment
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