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Running hot. Why?

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  • Running hot. Why?

    On the parkway, my car sits at about 225-230*. What would cause this? It used to sit at 200-210*. I've checked my coolant level and it's fine. Could it be that it needs to be flushed out?
    Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
    SOLD- Kinda miss it
    94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
    SOLD- Good riddance!
    2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow

  • #2
    It it possible the air dam has been damaged?
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      With the exception of some scraping along the bottom, the air dam looked to be in excellent shape the last time I looked. That was some time back though. I'll go check it out before work. It's strange. If I were to downshift to 3rd and punch it, the temperature drops by a considerable amount. Then it shoots right back up again.
      Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
      SOLD- Kinda miss it
      94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
      SOLD- Good riddance!
      2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow

      Comment


      • #4
        Same thing happened to me, all of a sudden out of no where it began running hot. The car also began to sputter (whole different thing). I flushed it and all is well. My coolant sludged up over the winter.

        2002 Firehawk Sold

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        • #5
          That's hot even under your normal temps. Mine sits under 180 when cruising, rising above 220 only when I sit in traffic. If you air dam checks out, flush your cooling system. Dexcool gets sludgy after a while.
          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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          • #6
            Waterpump, bad radiator cap, coolant system leak, thermostat sticking open and allowing coolant to pass through the radiator to fast, etc.

            It's always a good idea to start with performing a coolant system pressure test and a cap pressure test.

            How many miles on the waterpump?

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            • #7
              Thanks for the replies fellas. The air dam is still in one piece. No cracks or anything. How do I check the pressures in the coolant system and the cap? Also, how do I go about flushing the coolant? I think that needs to be done. Hasn't been done since I bought the car nearly two years ago. As far as I know, everything on the car is stock. Thanks again.
              Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
              SOLD- Kinda miss it
              94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
              SOLD- Good riddance!
              2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow

              Comment


              • #8
                Honestly, flushing the cooling system is well worth the $125 or so the shop will charge. I spent nearly 2 hours trying to bleed all of the air out of the system. I wound up using an extra gallon to account for the spillage while I was bleeding. It's a real pain on the LT1's.

                As for the cap, simply buy another one. Their cheap and they do fail...eventually. If the system is not under pressure, the cooling system will not work right.
                Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                Comment

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