I just recent did a motor swap on my 95 Trans Am, and in doing so I had to take aloose the front brake lines, I called myself bleeding them, but still have very little brake pedal and the brake light stay on....any ideas...
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I called my self doing so but have much experience with ABS, could somebody break down the steps
There are two bleeders on the ABS unit. That's where you start. If the "ABS INOP" light is on or there are stored brake DTC codes, you have to repair the problem causing the codes first, then have the ABS "motors" homed using a Tech-2 or similar high end diagnostic tool. There is a different procedure for bleeding depending on whether you car has traction control.
Without the Tech-2 to home the motors, there is a slightly complex procedure for bleeding the ABS, and it will only work if there are no brake trouble codes. Then there is the issue of pressure bleeding vs. manual bleeding. I can fax you a copy of the procedure from the Chiltons manual if you want. It's a bit too long to type.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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