Nitrous

[Mirroredshades]

Before I get started, I just want to say that this site ROCKS. I bought my TA 2 months ago and have already been helping other people with their machines - simply by what I have learned on this site.

I want to give my 96 TA M6 some giggle gas. Mostly stock. I think I am going to go with a Wet system from either NW or TNT. Anyone have a good or bad opinion for these manufacturers? Who has the best prices on these systems?

I use the car primarily for the street.

Thanx

[N20LT4Bird]

I have a TNT system. Its great. I have run an NOS system before and I was not anywhere near as impressed. It just didnt hit as hard. Also, you can tell TNT goes the extra mile in giving you a good kit. Comes with the wring, connectors, a nice guage, high quality filter etc. ALl around a real nice kit and it comes on strong! I cant speak for NX, but the solenoids look similiar.

[Mirroredshades]

I couldn't find anywhere on TNT's site if the LT1 kit is wet or dry. What parts are different from a wet to dry kit?

Is a WET kit going to cause me space issues with my CAI? It is pretty tight already.

[N20LT4Bird]

Its a wet kit. If you have clearance problems, improvise. Thats what hot rodding is about. You may have to trim a hose here and cut a little there. It will fit.

Go with a wet kit. This could start an arguement, but it just seems safer to me. Theres no messing around, nice and simple.

[Craig 2000 TA]

I have to say...wet and dry both scare me a little... dry because you could end up lean and go BOOM! Wet because you could get gas puddled in your intake and go BOOM! anyway. Only thing I will say is do LOTS of research before you just go strapping this on. make sure you know whats up and maybe even look into getting it professionally installed. a real good setup will have a window switch and a WOT switch so that its not just push a button stuff. Think safetey...you blow it up its gonna cost a fortune to fix!

[MN6WS6]

Im really going to try and not get in a debate, but I recommend dry. Regardless of how you do it, make sure you get a fuel pressure safety switch, a wide open throttle switch, and a window switch from 3000-5200 if you're on stock ignition (which you shouldn't do), or if you have an MSD 6AL (highly recommended) you can run it 2500-5500 on the window.

Results? NOS 5176 dry kit on a 1996 WS6 Formula 6 speed, completely stock except for an underdrive pulley and a K&N air filter, I went 12.36@106 mph. When I say stock, I mean stock, stock clutch, stock rearend with 3.42's, stock manifolds through the exhaust, stock suspension, STOCK.

[N20LT4Bird]

I agree the dry system works good for a stock application, because its jetted that way. But, what happens when your engine is far from stock? The wet kit is jetted proportionally air/fuel, so it doesnt matter. The dry kit relies on your stock proramming to add the correct amount of fuel with the N2O. I agree you can reprogam and reclibrate, bump up fuel pressure etc ... But often times you change the way the car runs off the juice. Again, this is the age old debate. It comes down to preference I guess.

[Mirroredshades]

Several of the kits say I can run on a stock fuel pump. Is this realistic? I am really trying not to break the bank, but, I plan on doing it right the first time and just need to know. What psi should my pump be putting out? I think it was putting out 36 idle and 42 at midrange.

[Injuneer]

Stock fuel pressure should be 43.5psi +/-2.5psi with the engine idling and the vacuum line removed from the regulator. Plug the line back on the regulator, and the pressure should drop in proportion to engine vacuum, a 5-8psi drop is normal. At WOT, the pressure should return to the "no vacuum" reading and hold there, with no more than a 1 or 2psi loss.

Stock injectors/fuel system will support about 400-450HP. So if you put a 125-shot (wet) on a stock engine, you will probably be OK. But if you're already pushing say 350flywheelHP with mods, adding a 125-150 shot is going to be too much for the fuel system. Adding a booster pump, or installing an upgraded in tank pump is a good idea.

The reason the NOS-5176 dry kit requires the inline booster pump is simply that it needs up to 85-90psi to flow the extra fuel for the nitrous, when the PCM is basing its pulse widths on the stock (NA) calculations.

You really can't go wrong putting a larger fuel pump..... cheap insurance.

[Adam 2kSS]

ahh. the dry vs. wet kit debate. never ending. From what i have read, a dry kit on a tuned car will hit just as hard and dyno just as high as a wet kit. problem is you should get new injectors and a fuel pump w/ the drykit, and then tuning is neccesary. w/ the wet kit you just should get a new fuel pump. now a wet kit is made to run on a wet manifold system, and a dry kit on a dry manifold system. w/ a wet kit you could get a nitrous backfire, and dont have to worry about that on a dry kit. there are many other points and this could be argued all day. you really must do your research and decide what is best for you. for me i decided to go w/ a dry kit, because i dont plan on going over 150 and am getting tuning soon. i decided w/ the proper stuff (fuel injectors, fuel pump and tuning) that a dry kit is safer. a window switch, wot switch and fuel pressure safty switch are a must no matter which way you go. As for the safest system, direct port would be safest.