It is time: Headers for my car... what to get?

[TraceZ]

The Y pipe has a huge impact on the performance of the combination in 96-97 dual cat cars. The factory Y pipe and cat configuration is horrible at best. Simply adding the headers and retaining the factory Y pipe offers only modest gains.

I've been happy with mine and with stock heads and cam, traction limited 13.0s are regular.

My car is single cat, should I use the stock y-pipe? If not, what is the best replacement?

The system I'm looking at appears to include a y-pipe.



These ceramic-coated 4-into-1 headers fit the 1993-1995 Chevrolet Camaro and Pontiac Firebird with LT1 V8. This high-luster ceramic coating will lower under hood temperatures and add an awesome "finishing touch" to your engine compartment. It retains exhaust temperature and exhaust gas velocity, increasing power.

They are guaranteed to produce more torque and horsepower than any other header with the same tube size and length, and will add up to 25 additional horsepower depending on your application. Made from stainless, the headers have 1-3/4" O.D. primary tubes. These headers are designed to work with factory 1994-1995 A.I.R. systems and catalysts.

NOTES: SLP Header Installation Kit (#30027) required. Installation of these headers requires welding. 1993 Camaro and Firebird will require the purchase and retrofit of the 1994-1995 factory A.I.R. set up. Please refer to our complete detailed instructions for GM part numbers.

SLP 4-into-1 Ceramic-Coated Headers feature:
Ceramic thermal barrier coating keeps heat in, exhaust velocity up, and underhood temperature down
Offer up to 15 additional horsepower
Are street legal in ALL 50 states CARB E.O. #D-187-10.
Offer our Performance Guarantee
Fuel economy improvements depending on your driving style
Easy, bolt-on installation
Compatible with all factory emission equipment
Improved 0-60 MPH and 1/4 mile performance
Crafted from mandrel-bent .055" wall thickness stainless steel tubing for smooth exhaust flow
Investment cast 3/8" thick 304 stainless steel flanges for better sealing and long life
Covered by our Limited Lifetime Warranty

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Those are my headers. They leaking never stopped. Even the Percy's were no match for the warped flanges. I could have received a bad set though. SLP wouldn't do a thing to help me.

It comes with a y-pipe. You cannot use the stock y-pipe...even then, they're so restrictively small, it would be a waste for the headers. I have them mated to a carsound 3" and the sound is amazing. If you want to hear the sound (open and closed cutout),

http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu...ig94TADyno.wmv

The sound quality is dramatically decreased for size...I have the original copy though.

[JL8Jeff]

I know you said you didn't want longtube headers, but here's my 96 SS with the Pacesetter ceramic coated longtubes with their y-pipe that I added dual cats into. Technically, it's not 100% legal because it relocates the driver's side cat further down but it should pass most inspections. The Pacesetter flange that bolts to the head is very thick 3/8-5/16" thick so chances of warping are pretty slim. But I have read about guys having the lower tube area near the collectors get blasted by road debris and the coating wear off over time and leading to rust starting. This is true with any coated header. Your best bet might be stainless headers. Here's a shot of my y-pipe with the dual cats. I have some header wrap around the pipe where it comes close to the brake line and fuel lines.

[TraceZ]

Those are my headers. They leaking never stopped. Even the Percy's were no match for the warped flanges. I could have received a bad set though. SLP wouldn't do a thing to help me.

It comes with a y-pipe. You cannot use the stock y-pipe...even then, they're so restrictively small, it would be a waste for the headers. I have them mated to a carsound 3" and the sound is amazing. If you want to hear the sound (open and closed cutout),

http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu...ig94TADyno.wmv

The sound quality is dramatically decreased for size...I have the original copy though.

Could you have them machined to fix the warp?
I like the fact they are stainless and 100% emission legal in all 50 states. Hmmm. Were they warped out of the box, or did they warp with heat over time? I wonder if I should just plan on having my machinist true them up after they arrive, if I order a set?

[TraceZ]

I know you said you didn't want longtube headers, but here's my 96 SS with the Pacesetter ceramic coated longtubes with their y-pipe that I added dual cats into. Technically, it's not 100% legal because it relocates the driver's side cat further down but it should pass most inspections. The Pacesetter flange that bolts to the head is very thick 3/8-5/16" thick so chances of warping are pretty slim. But I have read about guys having the lower tube area near the collectors get blasted by road debris and the coating wear off over time and leading to rust starting. This is true with any coated header. Your best bet might be stainless headers. Here's a shot of my y-pipe with the dual cats. I have some header wrap around the pipe where it comes close to the brake line and fuel lines.

That looks very nice, and the ground clearance looks good too. I really need to stay 50 state legal though. There is no testing where I live, but I dont want to have a car that is not legal. I used to have long tubes on a 87 Iroc I had and selling it was hard because of the non-compliance. 2 out of state buyers told me they couldnt buy it because of that. I'm sure I could of gotten more for it if it had been legal. I just feel it is the "right thing" to do, even if it costs me a small amount of performance.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Agh, double post, sorry.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Could you have them machined to fix the warp?
I like the fact they are stainless and 100% emission legal in all 50 states. Hmmm. Were they warped out of the box, or did they warp with heat over time? I wonder if I should just plan on having my machinist true them up after they arrive, if I order a set?

I bought them brand new and they were like this. Yes, I got them machined for $30 or $35. But they had to cut so deep that there are holes in the flanges now: http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu..._on_flange.jpg
The holes created an exhaust leak that have to be covered up by aluminum foil. I'm going to get them welded so there will be no more holes, but it's frustrating to know you've paid that much money and they're as bad as buying a used set.

Here's the before pics: http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu...ange_level.jpg
http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu...nge_level2.jpg

Here's the after pic: http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictures/new_flanges.jpg

[TraceZ]

I bought them brand new and they were like this. Yes, I got them machined for $30 or $35. But they had to cut so deep that there are holes in the flanges now: http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu..._on_flange.jpg
The holes created an exhaust leak that have to be covered up by aluminum foil. I'm going to get them welded so there will be no more holes, but it's frustrating to know you've paid that much money and they're as bad as buying a used set.

Here's the before pics: http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu...ange_level.jpg
http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictu...nge_level2.jpg

Here's the after pic: http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictures/new_flanges.jpg

Thanks for all the info, I wonder if it would be possible to bend them instead of grinding them?? Did you try to bend them to make them strait?

[Joe K. 99 Zeee!!]

The pre-'96 SLP shorties have a good reputation. It's a nice comprimise. I got SLP shorties for my '96. I loved the change in exhaust tone after the install. That's a slightly different design though.

Check the flange, you don't want to have to go back to fix a leak. Locking bolts are a must. I installed Stage 8 after the fact. I wish I had used them in the first place. Also, invest in some good gaskets. Copper or soft aluminum I think. Each has it's fans. That should keep you fairly safe from annoying exhaust leaks.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Thanks for all the info, I wonder if it would be possible to bend them instead of grinding them?? Did you try to bend them to make them strait?

I never tried, nor thought about bending them. I didn't even know this is possible? Would the ceramic coating chip and/or the weld at the collector fail if they're bent? Each primary was warped in a different way, so I would think my case would have been nearly impossible to bend...but I could be wrong

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

You can't bend them without bolting them to a plate and heating them with a rosebud. I held mine on a belt sander until they were flat. It took a while since the stainless is so tough it dulls the abrasive ina hurry. Def pay someone else to do it. Hey, maybe you'll luck out and yours will be fine.

The good thing is that between the thick stainless and the coating, they should last a long time.

[Joe 1320]

The good thing is that between the thick stainless and the coating, they should last a long time.

Mine still look fantastic after years of use. I would also pick up a few extra items. Taylor firesleeves should be used to cover all plug wire boots, ditch the metal boot protectors. Also pick up some thermal stick on heat shielding. I covered the heater box as well as wrapped a few hoses and such that are in close proximity of the passenger side header.

[TraceZ]

Do I need 3/4" or 1" stage 8 locking header bolts? They have both lengths for the SBC.

[bn_bullet]

Trace,

Just to add to this thread, I alse have the 94-95 SLP headers and had to do the exact same thing as Craig. I didn't have to take off quite as much but had to machine them down on a belt sander just the same.

Also, I have Stage 8 locking header bolts. I used 1" stainless steel bolts (p/n 8951). Be prepared for a sticker shock when you see the price though. You could use p/n 8911A if you would rather have a regular steel version. I have had no leaks at all since my intial install over two years ago using these bolts with a Fel-Pro gasket (which the part number escapes me). The 3/4" bolts may be long enough but I don't think you get proper thread engagement with them so I would opt for the 1" bolts. Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide.

Take care,
Brian

[Joe 1320]

Do I need 3/4" or 1" stage 8 locking header bolts? They have both lengths for the SBC.

get 1" stainless.