Hey guys, my brothers friend just offered me an ATI Procharger kit, Its the highest model, D-3SC I think, everything for 1500! He had it on his T/A that was in Motor Trend Magazine while back. My question is what do I have to do to either make my engine compatible with this SC model or what do i gotta do to make the SC compatible with my current set up, Can I just change the pulley?
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SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems -
Ya- that must be a huge unit, even their D-1SC is for high amounts of boost. I would contact Procharger and tell them the model and car you plan to run it on, and see what they say regarding what the boost can be pullied down to - it might just be too big of a head unit for your appication. Assuming that this is intercooled, 7-8 psi with tuning would be the ABSOLUTE max you should even think about running if the bottom end and compression levels on your LT1 are stock.
Also, how many miles are on the motor? Adding a supercharger if it is over around 70K could shorten the life of many of your parts, and building it right for boost costs big $$$.
Sorry to rant and rave, but there is a lot of stuff to think about when supercharging, as I recently found out. But, if your motor is not worn out and you can get the boost down to the 7 psi. range, then just make sure you have good exhaust, appropriate injectors, and good tuning, and give it a try!! Just realize that one mod leads to another, and a supercharger is a BIG mod!! good-luck with whatever you decide to do.1997 Camaro Z28 w/ LT1. SRP forged pistons, Eagle H-Beam forged Rods, 9.2:1 comp ratio. Voretch S-trim supercharger w/ 6 lbs. boost. 36 lb. injecters, T-Rex in-line fuel pump 3:73 gears, Auto w/ Hughes 3,000 stall, transgo shift-kit, LE2 heads + custom cam, 52 mm. tb, Comp. 1.6 rr. + chromemoly pushrods, pacesetter LT's, no cats, Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth cat-back, SLP sub-frame connectors, MSD wires, HI-6R ignition, I think thats it.....
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sorry, forgot that you stated your miles in your sig. that motor could probably handle boost for a while with a GOOD tune1997 Camaro Z28 w/ LT1. SRP forged pistons, Eagle H-Beam forged Rods, 9.2:1 comp ratio. Voretch S-trim supercharger w/ 6 lbs. boost. 36 lb. injecters, T-Rex in-line fuel pump 3:73 gears, Auto w/ Hughes 3,000 stall, transgo shift-kit, LE2 heads + custom cam, 52 mm. tb, Comp. 1.6 rr. + chromemoly pushrods, pacesetter LT's, no cats, Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth cat-back, SLP sub-frame connectors, MSD wires, HI-6R ignition, I think thats it.....Comment
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No such model as far as I know. They have a D-3R. There will be a manfacture tag on the head unit that will show the model.Originally posted by Jeanius
You need to find out if he fab'ed his own bracket and how he had the head unit mounted. What all does the $1500 include?Comment
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It might be that one, I know its the highest model they had from a few years back. Im trying to see if I should jump on it, since I was thinking I might sell my 95 in about a year and get on 01 or 02 Hawk but I dont know yet. Everything meaning all the hoses, intercooler, head unit, everything a brand new kit comes withOriginally posted by fastTA
SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker SystemsComment
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That's a really good price on any supercharger for our cars. But if you were to use it, and really run your car hard, it would most likely break your engine. LT1 pistons don't like much more than 4.5-6 lbs of boost. You would be safer if you had your motor rebuilt for forced induction with different compression and FI pistons. If you have the cash sitting around, then grab it and worry about what you'll do later on.69 Z28 with JL8 factory 4 wheel disc brakes, crossram, transistor ignition, radio delete, heater delete - being restored
70 SS 396 L78 documented, #'s matching
2000 SS Camaro daily beaterComment
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well even if your planing on selling your car
and getting a hawk you could still get that unit and turn around and sell it for a little more... you could probally get 2k without much problem. so if it were me and i had the cash i would buy it and store it to put on my car in the future. but with the miles you have on your car i would throw it on and just keep the boost low, because as long as its not your daily driver, then you really don't have to many things to worry about. and then if later on down the road you find yourself with that kinda cash laying around again... then i'd do a rebuild and crank that boost up. but thats just my opinion, i've always loved your year's T/A so i'm baised to keeping it and making it as bad as it could be though...
1990 Eagle talon TSI- daily driver
78' firebird formula -350/350- stock...now deadComment
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There's a limit to how much you can "turn down" a centrifugal S/C. It has a design operating point, defined as a function of blower RPM, boost and CFM - the compressor "map". It operates most efficiently at that design point. As you get away from the design point, the blower efficiency starts to drop. That means that your engine is making power, but the crank snout is transferring much of that power back to the blower to turn it. You're adding all the stress and strain to the engine but you're wasting as much as 1/2 of that power turning the blower, and heating up the air, and only getting 1/2 of it back in the way of boost. You have to take a good look at the map for the specific blower, but going on Kevin's input regarding the size of the unit, it would seem like you would be way off the curve by dropping it down to low blower RPM, low boost, and low CFM.
Invest for the future, but look at the blower specifications before you put it on your current engine.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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Fred basically summed it up pretty well. If it is in fact a larger unit such as the D-3R, you will not very successful with it on a stock motor. Not because the bottom end cannot handle it, but because you will be seriously decreasing the head unit's efficiency curve by under-driving it.
Each head unit is designed with a certain balance between the inlet diameter and outlet diameter, the inducer diameter and exducer diameter, and the transmission's step up ratio. All of these factors largely dictate the head unit's efficiency curve, max impeller RPM, and ultimate CFM delivery at a given crankshaft RPM.
If it is something like a D-1SC then you it will work much better for you.Comment
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This thread is a perfect example of why I love this forum!Thanks for all the input guys, Ill hold off on it. I was gonna sell my stereo and hood to afford the S/C, glad I asked the experts first!
SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker SystemsComment
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Did you ever verify the head unit model? If this is in fact a larger head unit and a complete "package", why not purchase it and flip it. You could easily get $2500 or more for it.Comment
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No I havent verified it yet, It would take me a good while to come up with 1500 without borrowing $ or selling anything, I dont think hes trying to get rid of it asap, he just has it sitting there, my brother was thinking about buying it for future use if I didnt, possibly well go halves and then split the sale price if he doesnt want to keep it
SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker SystemsComment
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