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  • #16
    Originally posted by 02 WS6
    As far as changing over to synthetic, there is no particular method. Some believe introducing the synthetic oil to your car over three or four oil changes is the way to go. It's a pretty small percentage that feel that way, however.

    You'll be fine just switching to synthetic in your next oil change. I've done it to all my cars, regardless of mileage. Good luck.
    I agree. Whenever someone is ready to make the switch to synthetic, just go for it in one oil change. I also have never had any problems doing this.

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    • #17
      I did the switch all at once on my Camaro with 146,000 miles on it. They claim that it can loosen deposits that will plug the oil pump. My car had the oil changed at Walmart when the previous owner had it, so I'm pretty sure that if any car would get plugged, it would be mine.

      The only real disadvantage of synthetic oil is that it will find leaks that you didn't know you had.
      95 A4 Z28 with 146K miles



      My DD is a 94 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd w/ 2/4 drop and 20" Centerline Stingray III's

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      • #18
        Originally posted by AJ52486
        The only real disadvantage of synthetic oil is that it will find leaks that you didn't know you had.
        I wouldn't consider that a disadvantage...

        It just reveals a problem you always had...now you can fix it.

        Christopher Teng

        1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
        Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
        B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
        Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
        Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

        Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

        F-Body Dirty Dozen

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        • #19
          98's had auburn posi's, which wear out. Torsen's don't have the same ultimate capacity, but they either work or don't. So for a lightly modded car that is a fairly big difference, especially in an auto where the rear might actually hold up the whole time.

          The distinct ECM makes buying some used parts harder. Tuners are 98 specific, as are ip clusters. On a plus the temp gage actually works.

          They also had more restrictive exhaust manifolds, and the smaller gas tank.

          The engines are also less suitable to be used for rebuild, if that matters to you.

          Those things alone were enough for me.

          Outside of that, the general rule of avoiding the first year of production (of anything) is not a joke. I think we made out pretty well and there were not a lot of issues with 98's, but I'd still avoid them if I could.

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