i need a how to replace a rear main seal on a 1997 formula with a 4L60E transmission and tips/tricks will really help, were gonna be doing this in my garage
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How to on 1997 Formula
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The easy part is replacing the seal.
Getting to it is where all the work is.
Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com
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i was afraid of the exhuast part, do the nuts usually come off with a lil bit of pentrating oil or am i gonna need heat? the car has like 60K on it. as far as i kno, it hasnt been driven any winters at all but it does sit outside2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD
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fastTa
Once you get to the seal, it is an easy R&R. There are 3 pry points to get the old seal out. Do not pry from anywhere else besides these 3 pry points. This will ensure that you don't damage the seal bore:

If this is your first time doing a rear main oil seal, you might be better off to use the GM RMS install tool. It is part number J-35621. Most dealerships and parts stores that stock it will allow you to borrow or rent the tool. You place the seal onto the RMS installer then you attach the installer to the crankshaft. Make sure you get the installer attachment bolts very snug. This will make sure the seal gets pressed on squarely. There is a large wing-nut that you will turn which will press the seal onto the crankshaft. Make sure you turn the wing-nut until it bottoms out.
When you pull the old seal off, inspect the end of the crankshaft for any nicks or grooves. If it looks OK, then go ahead with the seal install. Also, before you install the seal, wipe the end of the crankshaft very well with a dry rag. Then when you are ready to install the new seal, wipe the seal with some clean motor oil. One more thing.....the dust lip should face the back of the car.
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fastTa
You don't have to remove the rear main bearing housing to R&R the RMS. But, if you choose to remove the bearing housing, make sure you install a new bearing housing gasket.Originally posted by 88bird5spdso i cant just take the housing off the r&r the seal?
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fastTa -
ok, i think ill just help him drop and get the tranny outta the way and let him do the rear main seal
also i guess he bought the teflon rms
i guess this is better then the other rubber. but hopefully it goes off without a hitch
2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD
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You will have to remove the oil pan to remove the RMS housing. You don't want to have to do that, do you?Originally posted by 88bird5spdso i cant just take the housing off the r&r the seal?
Only if the RMS housing seal is leaking, would you have to remove it.
Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com
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fastTa
The Teflon seal is supposed to be more durable. It is also more expensive.Originally posted by 88bird5spdok, i think ill just help him drop and get the tranny outta the way and let him do the rear main seal
also i guess he bought the teflon rms
i guess this is better then the other rubber. but hopefully it goes off without a hitch
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fastTa
Well the RMS install tool is not a absolute neccessary item. I just felt like it would give you a bit more confidence in getting the RMS installed correctly the first time.Originally posted by 88bird5spdok, well i sent him the p/n for the tool and how much it cost, hes just gonna have a dealer do it
I can do them all day long with a hammer and a 2x4 block.
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