The 383 is in !!!

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Went right in the top with nary a hitch...

[94Z/28]

Looking good, how long do you think it will take to get it driveable?

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

I could get it going in a couple days, but I want to sort a few things out to make it easier to work on in the future and might have to order a few oil fittings, make some new ignition wires, and change some of the wiring harness, etc, so I will probably drag it out a bit. I'm just glad to have the engine back in there - That was definitely the hard part - The rest of the stuff I have to do - I've been there before.

One thing I'm NOT looking forward to is retorqing the heads after run-in. That means pulling the headers out of the way to get to the last row of head studs and that will be a pain.

[fastTa]

What did your static CR end up at? How much boost are you going to shoot for?

I like the block painted red! Looks pretty sweet.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Thanks Kev, I'm at 8.9 or so. I still have the original blower which probably won't make a lot of boost with the bigger engine, but I'll get a T-Trim when I get over the buyer's remorse for the engine parts. It's hard to say what the boost will be with the different cam, larger engine, and more ported out heads. If I can get it up to 8 or so, that will be OK for starters, but I would def get bored with that before too long. I'll see how it tunes up and how well the meth injection works now that I don't have broken pistins in there fouling everything up and go from there.

[speed racer]

nice should make over 500 rwhp.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I love the smell of paint burning off a new engine. Mmmmmmm

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

Just curious...why would you have to retorque the head bolts after run in? Is this normal for a new motor?

I thought the bolts were "make till break" or something to that effect, meaning the are torqued once, stretch, and left alone.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Just curious...why would you have to retorque the head bolts after run in? Is this normal for a new motor?

I thought the bolts were "make till break" or something to that effect, meaning the are torqued once, stretch, and left alone.

Depends on the head gaskets and bolts used. I have Cometic Stainless MLS head gaskets and ARP studs. Once the assembly is heat cycled, it won't have the same torque when it cools, so you loosen the nuts a quarter turn & retorque them, then you're good to go. Just like you should do with header bolts a couple times, then they stay put.

[fastTa]

Just curious...why would you have to retorque the head bolts after run in? Is this normal for a new motor?

I thought the bolts were "make till break" or something to that effect, meaning the are torqued once, stretch, and left alone.

It is a common procedure. Even when you use the 3 step torque process, it's still a very good idea to retorque the nut on the head studs after a heat cycle.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

Got it...thanks!

[Dragkid1917]

Thanks Kev, I'm at 8.9 or so. I still have the original blower which probably won't make a lot of boost with the bigger engine, but I'll get a T-Trim when I get over the buyer's remorse for the engine parts. It's hard to say what the boost will be with the different cam, larger engine, and more ported out heads. If I can get it up to 8 or so, that will be OK for starters, but I would def get bored with that before too long. I'll see how it tunes up and how well the meth injection works now that I don't have broken pistins in there fouling everything up and go from there.

Your going to run Alcohal? With all of that stuff alone, depending on how much u port the heads you could be up at like 700hp easy, especially running methanol. I dont know how you would get bored of that.

[fastTa]

Your going to run Alcohal? With all of that stuff alone, depending on how much u port the heads you could be up at like 700hp easy, especially running methanol. I dont know how you would get bored of that.

It will depend if he is going to run denatured ethanol or methanol, but generally speaking the real benefits from running alky injection is not from a direct power increase.

Alky injection is very important on a boosted car with no intercooler. It keeps the induction charge temp down, allows you to lean the gasoline a/f target ratio, and it allows you to run more timing and boost because of this; all the while helping to prevent detonation and detonation induced pre-ignition(not good).

Alky or alky/water injection substantially increases the effective octane in the combustion chamber. So just the addition of alky alone will likely not show any gains in power just by itself. When you first install alky injection, normally the measured a/f will go pig rich. You compensate by pulling fuel from the the gasoline map. But the neat thing about alky injection is that you can run slightly leaner than you would normally be able to without the alky injection. This has the potential to make more power as well. So the combination of being able to run more timing, keeping the induction charge temp down as much as 100 deg F, helping to avoid detonation, and running a bit leaner all work together to make more and safer power.

Alky injection can be tricky to tune and/or map, but it is a huge plus on N20 and forced induction cars.

[FroSSty]

Kevin, if you DO get bored with all that power, you could always install some (small amounts ) Nitrous...

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Kevin, if you DO get bored with all that power, you could always install some (small amounts ) Nitrous...

I thought about that, really, but have you priced the stuff lately?