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  • power window motor

    If i wanted to replace this myself, is it hard to do?

  • #2
    It would be "helpful" to know what kind of car you are talking about. I assume from your name that it is a Camaro but is it a 1967 or a 2002. Big difference.

    Suggestion, put your car information in your signature.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      If you have a 4th gen (more likely since they have power window motor problems) then go to www.shbox.com. Great resource site! There's a window motor replacement guide with pictures and good instructions. I haven't done it myself, but a number of guys here have. Next time mine goes out, I'm doing it myself. A dealership will charge around $330 for this work. You can pick up a motor for around $40-$50 with a lifetime warranty at advance auto or auto track I think...one of those stores.
      Joe K.
      '11 BMW 328i
      '10 Matrix S AWD
      Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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      • #4
        it was a PITA!!!! haha dont let me discourage you, but there is little room to work with...but save me a hell of alot of money!!!
        1996 Trans Am WS6

        A4, 3" VForce Catback, Corvette C6 rims, Slotted and Drilled Rotors, 160*stat, BMR SFC, HPP3, B&M Shift Kit.

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        • #5
          F-body doors are a pain. Shortly after I got my car I was bored so I followed Shoebox's instructions and drilled out the rivets on both power window motors, replacing them with SS bolts and locknuts. When my drivers side motor finally failed, it was quick and simple to pop in a new one.

          I also drilled out the rivets holding my door glass to the window rail in both doors, and replaced the rivets with SS bolts and locknuts.

          My doors are really easy to maintain now. Heck, I could have the motor and the entire window out in just a few minutes.
          Tracy
          2002 C5 M6 Convertible
          1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
          Current Mods:
          SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TraceZ
            F-body doors are a pain. Shortly after I got my car I was bored so I followed Shoebox's instructions and drilled out the rivets on both power window motors, replacing them with SS bolts and locknuts. When my drivers side motor finally failed, it was quick and simple to pop in a new one.

            I also drilled out the rivets holding my door glass to the window rail in both doors, and replaced the rivets with SS bolts and locknuts.

            My doors are really easy to maintain now. Heck, I could have the motor and the entire window out in just a few minutes.
            Oh, you had rivets? I wish I had rivets. The stock driver's side motor had 3 screws with nuts on them...that were TAC WELDED TO THE SCREWS!! I'd love to get ahold of the genius that thought that one up.
            Steve
            79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
            87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
            93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
            http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

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            • #7
              Oh, you had rivets? I wish I had rivets. The stock driver's side motor had 3 screws with nuts on them...that were TAC WELDED TO THE SCREWS!! I'd love to get ahold of the genius that thought that one up.


              Just deal with it baby.





              Just kidding I would want to kick someones a$$ if that happen to me.
              Blazer

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              • #8
                power window motor

                I know when I changed my driver window motor...as mentioned before, it was a real PITA. Im not sure of everyone elses car, but the window regulator was riveted to the door itself, then the window motor was also riveted to the regulator. Luckily since I bolted it in after repair, the 2nd replacement wasnt as bad but still sucked. I dont know what GM made the rivets out of...but they should make the whole car out of it....dang things just about didnt want to be ground off.
                LarryMow-93 V6 Firebird-No engine mods-Z06 Wheels, '98 Taillights,'98 Center Console-SLP fan switch-BMR STB, F/R Swaybars, PHB,LCA,Torque Arm, SFC, Bilsteins, Eibachs....www.cardomain.com/ride/2489691/1

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by LarryMow
                  I know when I changed my driver window motor...as mentioned before, it was a real PITA. Im not sure of everyone elses car, but the window regulator was riveted to the door itself, then the window motor was also riveted to the regulator. Luckily since I bolted it in after repair, the 2nd replacement wasnt as bad but still sucked. I dont know what GM made the rivets out of...but they should make the whole car out of it....dang things just about didnt want to be ground off.
                  You do not need to remove the entire regulator from the door to replace the window. It really is much easier than that if you just follow the instructions on Shoebox's website to drill a few holes in the door structure exposing the rivets holding the motor to the regulator. Then you drill out the 3 rivets, remove the motor and bolt in the new one.
                  Tracy
                  2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                  1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                  Current Mods:
                  SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                  Comment

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