These don't move......
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Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor -
Now those are pretty sweet. Do the ramps come off after you're up? I need some high ramps like that so I can roll under with my creeper. Where'd you get 'em?
96 TA Sold!
87 TA Sold!
80 Z28 Sold!
74 Formula Sold!
73 Z28 Sold!
69 Camaro Not Sold!
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What year is your K5? I have a '77; love that old beast!!!Originally posted by Mirroredshades
I have the plastic ones similar to the autozone/Pep Boys and my 96 TA has no problems. They're tough too. I put my K5 on them without hesitation.'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas JeffersonComment
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Mine's a 77 too. I've done everything to it except roll it. Had water coming 6 inches up on the windshield and still made it out. Got 175k on it though. I'll sell it to you for cheap.
Good times.
96 TA Sold!
87 TA Sold!
80 Z28 Sold!
74 Formula Sold!
73 Z28 Sold!
69 Camaro Not Sold!
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Yes, both the metal ramps and the wood ramps can be removed with the car on the top.Originally posted by Mirroredshades
Now those are pretty sweet. Do the ramps come off after you're up? I need some high ramps like that so I can roll under with my creeper. Where'd you get 'em?Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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Ramps
You still didn't say who makes your ramps, or where you got them. I do like your setup though.
One could also make a long bottom plank with a ramp stop, long enough so that the rear tires would be on the bottom plank before the front tires get to the ramp. Even a length of rope, etc, tied to the ramp and run back long enough for the rear tires to clamp down on should work.
I have had metal ramp slip as well. Oddly, it seems to happen even more when backing down.Comment
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Smooth concrete is definitely not ramp friendly
!
The reason I prefer lifting the car with a floor jack and then setting it on jackstands is because it allows the all the unsprung parts to freely hang which is soooo much better for working on things such as brakes, suspension, wheels/tires. And it only takes me 3-4 minutes to jack it up and put it on stands and is much safer I think.
But even better is the two post lift we have coming as soon as the electrical is completed in the worshop.
No more laying on my back, woooo hoooo!
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