Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Valve stem seals

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Valve stem seals

    I started installing all new valvetrain stuff, and it looks like I got the wrong valve seals. I am going to be using the stock valves. I looked up the GM part numbers and it looks like the intake and exhauxt valves are different. Any reccomendations?

    I am installing:
    CompCams #26918-16 Springs
    CompCams #795-16 Steel Retainers
    CompCams ##611-16 10 degree locks
    CompCams #7940-16 HI_Tech Pushrod (5/16 7.200)
    CompCams #850-16 CS O-E Hyd Roller Lifters
    CraneCamss #10758-16 Aluminum Rocker Arm set (1.6 Ratio 3/8 stud Self Align)

    I bought CompCams #506-16, but it looks like they are the wrong ones. What should I go with. Also, anything else I should be concerned with going with the parts I bought? Will the stock valve covers work?

    BTW. I used the CraneCams #99473-1 Valve Spring compressor tool, and it was insanely simple to remove and install springs with the heads on the car. Expensive tool, but well worth it.
    1995 Firebird Formula
    (A4 3.23)Ram Air w/ K&N, TransGo Shift Kit w/3 washers ,SLP~Shorty headers, LoudMouth, Air Foil, LineLocks. Catco Cat. Hypertech 160. TB Bypass. MSD~8.5mm. Walbro 255lph. FT MAF ends. LT4KM. BMR~Adj LCA's, Rear sway, Panhard rod. HAL QA1 rear shocks. Random Tech adj TQ arm. Nitto NT555R's. Covered in Zaino. 13.466@103.85 N/A. [1.948 60' 13.410 @ 102.66 11/20/05]

  • #2
    You need the stock type umbrella seals, not pc seals unless you have had the guides machined for them. I think you need 502-16, but you had better verify that, cause I'm not sure. Also GM uses viton seals on the exhaust valve - they are more expensive than the rubber which they use on the intake valve, but better, so that's why they have different numbers for the intake and exhaust seals.

    Comment


    • #3
      I've been using stock OEM replacements for several thousand miles without a problem. They'll work as good as new, of course.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

      Comment


      • #4
        I ordered the factory GM seals yesterday. Also borrowed a friends power washer. The intake manifold was covered on the inside with layers of brown gunk. I am going to give that a shot while it is off.

        The new RR's seem like they are alot taller than the rest. Should I be able to retain the stock valve covers? I know some people have been able to modify their stock ones for different RR's. Anybody have pics of what they did to accomplish this?
        1995 Firebird Formula
        (A4 3.23)Ram Air w/ K&N, TransGo Shift Kit w/3 washers ,SLP~Shorty headers, LoudMouth, Air Foil, LineLocks. Catco Cat. Hypertech 160. TB Bypass. MSD~8.5mm. Walbro 255lph. FT MAF ends. LT4KM. BMR~Adj LCA's, Rear sway, Panhard rod. HAL QA1 rear shocks. Random Tech adj TQ arm. Nitto NT555R's. Covered in Zaino. 13.466@103.85 N/A. [1.948 60' 13.410 @ 102.66 11/20/05]

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Formulaboy95
          I ordered the factory GM seals yesterday. Also borrowed a friends power washer. The intake manifold was covered on the inside with layers of brown gunk. I am going to give that a shot while it is off.
          One tip to brighten up the manifold before you put it back together is to give it a few treatments of Eagle One etching aluminum mag wheel cleaner. It is specifically designed for rough cast aluminum wheels (our intake manifold is just that, rough cast aluminum). It pulls out as much of the oxidation as you can get without changing the surface via blasting or machining. I've used it for years with awesome results. Use it in a well ventilated area and rinse it really well, immediatly dry with compressed air. You'll be suprised.

          Comment

          Working...
          X