On my 1996 trans am, my driveshaft starts to vibrate around 80+ mph. Does anyone know why this might be happening? I'm sort of stumped so any help or feedback would be appreciated.
Common problem. There was a GM TSB to fix this, but it only covered the car when it was under warranty.
The solution is either a LS1 aluminum driveshaft or a 1LE aluminum driveshaft. You could also take your current driveshaft to a driveline shop and have them balance it.
Suggestion: Use the forum's "Search" feature for basic questions like this. This question has been answered many times.
Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
This has been reported on LT1 cars like said before, but the 3.73 gears have a reputation for exagerating it. Replacment driveshaft is usually the recommended solution.
Joe K.
'11 BMW 328i
'10 Matrix S AWD
Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP
Is there one that is recommended or the best one to go with? And what am I looking for in the driveshaft? A certain material (ie. aluminum), size, etc?
no they do not still make the 1LE dirveshaft. It has been discontinued. I'm having a hard time finding one myself and might just settle for an LS1 driveshaft since i dont plan on going to wild in the horsepower/torque category.
I've got the LS-1 driveshaft on my '95 firebird for $288.00 or so and the car felt a little smoother and lighter. Its a direct replacement to the LT1 DS.
LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam
You recently had the U-joint replaced and balanced, and NOW you have a vibration?!?! I would be back at that shop so fast, they would think I never left. What kind of work did they do for ya?
2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
"Black, the fastest color"
Just got off the phone with the mechanic...he says the U-joint is all rusted to shit. Hopefully thats what the prob was.
Mike
Thta should be the first thing any mecanic looks for when diagnosing a vibration in the drive line. Ask to see the U-joint after they are done to see the wear and or rust. I would think if you have the drive shaft out and removed the u-joints to balance the shaft why not replace them right away? The mechanic should have suggested this. U-joints arent that expensive. Its like pulling a trany with 160,000 k, you might as well do the clutch while your there, cause you know you will have to do it right away anyways.
Eric W.
89 Firebird Formula WS6
Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
6.2L/382.97 ci
Custom PROM Dyno tuned
WCT-5 speed
BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
Boss MS 18" Rims
Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
Custom Dual exhaust
1LE upgrade
Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
In a constant state of upgrade!
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