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  • Strange rear end questions - again

    Well, it looks like my rear end is starting to go. It howls and whines once you hit 35+ mph. It only gets louder the faster you go, and the sound seems to be getting louder as the weeks go by. I've searched around quite a bit and it seems that Strange is the likely candidate due to Fred's recommendation and experience. Also, it's a near direct bolt-in. But I do have a few questions.

    I'm going to get 3.42s. My commute 30 miles, all freeway, with 30% bad traffic and 70% free flowing. I'm getting 20-22 mpg in these conditions with 3.23s. With 3.73s, I think the mileage will be cut too much since I know 80 mph goes from 2400 to 2800. So are 3.42s sufficient in my case?

    Tbyrne and Spohn seem to have very similar prices, but Spohn offers a sway bar installation kit for an extra $75. From what I've read, it seems as if you don't really need one. But I'm wondering if this would help a bit.

    Can I use my bolt-in LCA relocation brackets on the Strange?

    For brakes, I am going to reuse everything stock? Stock discs, calipers, etc?

    Thanks in advance, I appreciate any advice.
    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

  • #2
    Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT

    Tbyrne and Spohn seem to have very similar prices, but Spohn offers a sway bar installation kit for an extra $75. From what I've read, it seems as if you don't really need one. But I'm wondering if this would help a bit.
    The Strange does not need a sway bar installation kit. Because it uses stock diameter axle tubes, all you needed to do was swap the stock sway bar mounts over to the Strange. But then the sway bar would hit the bottom of the very thick LPW aluminum cover they included (not sure if they still do) as standard. The "fix" was rotating the u-bolts/brackets on the axle housings, or adding shims. But Strange has apparently fixed this problem because they now include the sway bar mouning brackets welded to the axle tubes.

    Can I use my bolt-in LCA relocation brackets on the Strange?
    Yes. The LCA and shock mounts on the Strange are identical to factory parts. Are your brackets "bolt-on"?

    For brakes, I am going to reuse everything stock? Stock discs, calipers, etc?
    Works fine that way.

    The biggest problem I had long term with the Strange was the ABS sensor. It was very finnicky about how it was spaced to the reluctor gear, and it doesn't seem to last very long. I eventually disconnected it, and plan to remove the ABS unit, but that's mainly because its not really a street car any more.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks as always Fred.

      The LCA brackets are bolt-on.

      I wanted to also change the shocks, springs, and upgrade the brakes, but that will be way too much money. I was wondering, though, if I were to upgrade the brakes in the near future, would it be just like upgrading as if I still had the stock rear? Or would it be worth it to upgrade during the Strange install process?
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
        Thanks as always Fred.

        The LCA brackets are bolt-on.

        I wanted to also change the shocks, springs, and upgrade the brakes, but that will be way too much money. I was wondering, though, if I were to upgrade the brakes in the near future, would it be just like upgrading as if I still had the stock rear? Or would it be worth it to upgrade during the Strange install process?
        Just make sure you get the 93-97 caliper mounts. Any caliper designed for our cars will bolt to the caliper mounts just the same as a stock rear end.

        If you plan on going with the 1/2" lug studs and bigger brakes, I would reccomend getting the upgraded billet aluminum caliper mounts.

        Comment


        • #5
          Craig,

          Have you considered the new S60 rear from Strange? It is a bolt-in for the 3rd and 4th gen f-body but is based off of the Dana 60 center section. The advantage of this rear over the 12-bolt is it has a larger ring gear, uses 35 spline axles, and uses the stock ABS sensor. Also, the cost compared to the 12-bolt is the same. The S60 has factory torque arm provisions and LCA mounts. The S60 isn't advertised on their website yet but is advertised on the back page of the latest GM High Tech Perfomance magazine.

          FWIW, I have a Strange 12-bolt and have had no problems with it other than the ABS sensor was broken when I received it. Strange promptly sent me another one when I called them. Good luck in making a decision.

          Brian

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          • #6
            Try installing some Corvette fuel rail covers. They add 8.65 HP and also correct any issues with the rearend gears.








            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

            Comment


            • #7
              Brian, thanks for the info. I don't think that I'm going to go with the 60 because, from what I've read, is overkill like the 9". It's also louder, according to the guys on ls1tech.com. I think the Strange 12 bolt "ready to bolt-in" unit will be sufficient. I'm not planning on anything major (have to keep passing smog within the next 12+ years), so I won't be putting crazy amounts of power down - nothing close to breaking a 12 bolt.

              Kev, I'd probably go with what Tbyrne has to offer. They have a sale, $250 off, and their options seem like a good fit (is that all I need?):

              PRG210-PRGOP14 Fully assembled and dyno tested rearend (less brakes). Features include 3.150" ID housing ends, 33 spline S/S axles, 1/2" studs,33 spline Super Strength posi unit, choice of 3 channel (center) or 4 channel (axle) ABS ring installed, ABS sensor installed, choice of caliper mounts (1993-'97 or 1998-'02), U-1602 S-series yoke(1350), cross over U-joint, u-bolts, chrome cover and your choice of US Strange standard gear set - 3.42, 3.73, 3.90 or 4.10. (part # for cars with ABS sensor on the top of the pumpkin) $2469.99


              Tracy, I plan on the fuel rail covers soon. I can't wait until my car is .0865 seconds faster in the quarter mile!
              94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

              Comment


              • #8
                One thing they don't mention on the Strange website is the selection of the "carrier". I bought my rear with 3.73 gears. The invoice said it was built using a 3-series carrier. When I bought my US/Strange Pro-Street 4.10's I got them for the 3-series, but when they went to install the gears, they found a 4-series carrier. I think if you get a 3.42 it will come with the 3-series. There is no downside to that, as long as you don't want to go numerically higher than 4.10 in the future.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the info, Fred. I'll definitely note that.

                  Regarding the ABS problem, I think I may just get it anyway, then disconnect if it gives me trouble. I already have an ABS INOP problem that I can't seem to fix, so it's really no loss...with the exception of the $150 or so extra.

                  I am still on original shocks and springs, though. 114k miles, but they still seem to be holding up well. I don't know if it's worth replacing now or how hard it would be when the rear is already on.
                  94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
                    Thanks for the info, Fred. I'll definitely note that.

                    Regarding the ABS problem, I think I may just get it anyway, then disconnect if it gives me trouble. I already have an ABS INOP problem that I can't seem to fix, so it's really no loss...with the exception of the $150 or so extra.

                    I am still on original shocks and springs, though. 114k miles, but they still seem to be holding up well. I don't know if it's worth replacing now or how hard it would be when the rear is already on.
                    With your mileage, the springs aren't critical, but it wouldn't hurt while you're there. The shocks I would definitely replace or upgrade. 114k....they are tired.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks, would it be good just to get OEM replacements? Non-adjustable Billstein shocks BSN-F4BE52407M1 ? How about KYB adjustable AGX-743019?
                      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
                        Thanks, would it be good just to get OEM replacements? Non-adjustable Billstein shocks BSN-F4BE52407M1 ? How about KYB adjustable AGX-743019?
                        I have heard nothing but good results with the Koni's and Bilstein's.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          With stock springs I think the best relatively low cost recommendation is Bilstein HD's.

                          New OEM replacements won't be much better than the old ones.

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                          • #14
                            Would it be bad or overkill to get adjustable ones with stock springs?

                            The Billstein HDs are a very nice price, though, at $79 a piece.
                            94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              HD's are pretty well good to go with stock springs. Koni adjustables are first class, but they aren't really necessary for a street car.

                              Mostly they only come into play if you start playing with lowering springs or full suspension setups.

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