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low 12's high 11's

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  • low 12's high 11's

    i want to run low 12's or high elevens
    oviously i will need slicks with suspension mods and headers

    what should i do with the motor i have

    what about a crate motor

    383 stroker?

    heads cam?


    i have mods listed

    cheapest route that will hold up
    1995 LT1 bird
    10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
    275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

    2005 Dode SRT-4
    agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
    6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

  • #2
    We could make a much more accurate idea if we knew what your car runs now. Drag strip time. if your looking for the cheapest then spray it. But stuff will brake
    2000 trans am auto, Afr 205,tr 220/220 112, mti lid, 160t,umi sfc,hooker headers and ory y,loud mouth. bellow,pr's,harland rockers,new lifters,ls6 oilpump,rollermaster doubler roller, msd wires.

    Comment


    • #3
      i was running like mid 13's when i had decent tires on it.

      i dont want to go the nitrous route

      all motor
      1995 LT1 bird
      10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
      275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

      2005 Dode SRT-4
      agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
      6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

      Comment


      • #4
        Try going to Advancedinduction.com. It looks like they have several options for whatever budget you have. There prices look reasonable and its all done with heads,cam,intake. I have heard good things about these guys, the main being reliability, and all done with a stock bottom end.
        1997 30th Anniversary Z28. Artic White with Hugger Orange Stripes. T-Tops, K&N Cold Air Intake, Mac Headers & High Flow Cats,Flowmaster Cat Back. Auto W/B&M Shifter Plus. Drilled And Slotted Rotors. Steel Braded Brake Lines. Alpine CD/MP3, JL Audio Stealth Box.

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        • #5
          i talked to lyod elliot yesterday and i think i want to go with his work.

          either the LE1 or LE2 package

          some suspension stuff

          im putting nitto nt55r on the back sometime either this week or next week
          1995 LT1 bird
          10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
          275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

          2005 Dode SRT-4
          agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
          6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

          Comment


          • #6
            i dont know what cam, i kinda want a more agressive one than the LE1 so should i jsut slurge for the LE2 or is there a way to make more power on the LE1?

            here are the supporting mods i believe i still need, let me know if i am missing anything or dont need somthing

            also if anyone knows what the best brand to go with is ro where to get somthing please let me know

            i need longtubes coated and a 3 inch y and race pipe but i dont know what brand

            throttle body 52-58mm

            30/36 lb injectors

            head gaskets? what kind

            roller rockers?

            guide plates

            studs

            walbro 255 fuel pump

            header gasket and studs

            trans cooler

            NT555r 275/40/17

            pcmforless retune

            subframe connectors box weld in

            adjustable panard

            strut tower brace

            torque arm

            lca's or relocation brackets

            how does that sound? do i need it all? what brands should i go with?
            1995 LT1 bird
            10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
            275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

            2005 Dode SRT-4
            agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
            6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

            Comment


            • #7
              Don't forget to add $2,000 for a Ford 9" or 12-bolt. The lil' rear won't like running 12's for long.
              Al 96 Ram Air T/A
              Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                Don't forget to add $2,000 for a Ford 9" or 12-bolt. The lil' rear won't like running 12's for long.
                Ew... dont get ford products. Just use the Gm 12 bolt and change the gears if you must. as for going high elevens a 383 would easily get you there, if you just get a nice set of heads w/ a cam on the stock 5.7 ull pick up a ton.
                [COLOR=Navy]2000 Navy Blue Trans Am, T Tops, Automatic, Ram Air, Slp 85mm Mas, Air Lid, Smooth bellow, Hooker 1.75 Lt's, ORY, LM1, Air/EGR delete, Throttle body coolant bypass. Msd super conductor wires. TSP cam, ss3600, svo 38LB injectors.
                Ported fast 92 mm intake and 92 mm TB on order.
                11.539 @ 118.82 1.649 60 foot.

                1969 z28 - 9.957 @ 133.92 1.425 60 foot.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You don't need a strut tower brace for drag racing. You do need upgraded pushrods to go with your new heads & roller rockers. You might oughta get a driveshaft loop and it wouldn't hurt to get a deep tranny pan if you don't already have one.

                  I might have some 30# injectors and new FelPro head gaskets for sale if you need them. The injectors have 1000 miles on them. PM me if interested - they're not advertised yet.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dragkid1917
                    Ew... dont get ford products. Just use the Gm 12 bolt and change the gears if you must. as for going high elevens a 383 would easily get you there, if you just get a nice set of heads w/ a cam on the stock 5.7 ull pick up a ton.

                    The Ford 9" is not just my recommendation, but many others, including Sam Strano. The 12-bolt, while being GM, is vastly inferior to the 9", and usually more expensive. They are also heavy, and harder to work on. The 9" differential comes out assembled, making it a snap to work on. I never thought I would say it, but Ford makes a better rear than GM, proven by the number of GM guys running around with Ford rears.

                    Heck, I ran a few laps around Pocono Raceway with one of those NASCAR experience outfits. I asked about the cars...all GM motors, however, they all used Ford rears...go figure.
                    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      some of those nice copper header gaskets, heads and cam should get you their. I like hooker headers, i just helped a friend put pacesters on his 97 and if anyone ever ask me to help again i will go running in the dark pulling my hair out if i already didnt loos it helping put them on. chromemolley push rods,
                      might as well do new timing chain and better oil pump. some head gaskets you can reuse i think cosmet.
                      2000 trans am auto, Afr 205,tr 220/220 112, mti lid, 160t,umi sfc,hooker headers and ory y,loud mouth. bellow,pr's,harland rockers,new lifters,ls6 oilpump,rollermaster doubler roller, msd wires.

                      Comment

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