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AIR tube..egr..air pump..do i need it

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  • AIR tube..egr..air pump..do i need it

    I was wondering if i needed the air tube that runs from one side..under the oil pan to the other side..the air pump is connected to it and what not. do i need it? if i dont i am going to take it out.
    -Jeff

  • #2
    You can remove it all, and as long as you leave a good fuse in the air pump slot, the SES light will not come on.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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    • #3
      Originally posted by TraceZ
      You can remove it all, and as long as you leave a good fuse in the air pump slot, the SES light will not come on.



      sweet thanks..that will clear up some more space..how did you guys block off the EGR and AIR holes on the intake? just put a piece of metal plate over it? that is probably what i am going to end up doing. oh yeah..one more..when i do take all of this stuff out..will i need to worry about vaccuum lines needing blocked?
      -Jeff

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      • #4
        If your car had the AIR recall performed on it you will need to remove the vacuum line for it. You'll need to get threaded plugs to put in the exhaust manifolds and block the holes the AIR valves used to go into. You'll also need to plug the hole in the intake ducting there the intake hose for the AIR used to go.
        Tracy
        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
        Current Mods:
        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

        Comment


        • #5
          If you remove the EGR, you will have a check engine light unless you get it tuned out. The AIR pump and lines are easy to remove though. As TraceZ said, if you leave the fuse in place, the SES light won't come on. The holes in the exhaust manifolds can be plugged with a oil plug for a Dodge Cummins, I think I got mine from a 96. The plug should be an M22 x 1.5 plug. I believe the spark plug wires on the driver's side are attached to the AIR tube that runs under the motor, so if you remove the tube, you'll have to make sure they don't go where they shouldn't.
          95 A4 Z28 with 146K miles



          My DD is a 94 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd w/ 2/4 drop and 20" Centerline Stingray III's

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          • #6
            Originally posted by AJ52486
            If you remove the EGR, you will have a check engine light unless you get it tuned out. The AIR pump and lines are easy to remove though. As TraceZ said, if you leave the fuse in place, the SES light won't come on. The holes in the exhaust manifolds can be plugged with a oil plug for a Dodge Cummins, I think I got mine from a 96. The plug should be an M22 x 1.5 plug. I believe the spark plug wires on the driver's side are attached to the AIR tube that runs under the motor, so if you remove the tube, you'll have to make sure they don't go where they shouldn't.

            well i got off road headers so that doesnt even matter anyway..as far as pluggin holes..what could i use to block off the AIR outlet on the intake and the egr? maybe just a piece of sheet metal..


            ohh before i forget, what could i possibly use to get my optispark apart..those God forsaken star bolts are so tiny i cant find a star bit small enough to get em..im stumped
            -Jeff

            Comment


            • #7
              I plugged the AIR outlet on the plastic intake with many layers of electrical tape. I then put a zip-tie around the outlet so the tape wouldn't come off from the heat. About the two holes in the intake manifold for the EGR, you can buy block-off plates, or just make your own out of sheet metal. When I made one for my friend's Charger, I used RTV to make sure it sealed up, but I think that new gaskets would work also.

              Here is a link for the block-off plates.
              95 A4 Z28 with 146K miles



              My DD is a 94 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd w/ 2/4 drop and 20" Centerline Stingray III's

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              • #8
                I got my plates here:
                www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_eng_lt1.html
                '95 Trans Am - A4, LE2 heads, LE1 cam, 1.6 ProMags, Comp R's, AS&M CAI, AS&M 54mm, MAC midlengths, Random Tech. cat, Borla cat back, PCMforless, Vigilante 2800, 3.73's, BMR LCAs/panhard/shock tower brace

                Comment


                • #9
                  AIR recall did not apply to the 94's. It was 95 and up. He will not have any vacuum line to worry about.

                  To plug the hole on the intake duct for the air supply tube, geta 5/8" vacuum cap at your local auto parts store. Do not use tape.... a bit "ghetto".

                  Another source for the EGR blockoff plates:

                  http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_eng_lt1.html


                  To take the Opti apart, you need an "external Torx" E4. If you can't find an E4 socket, find a T15 bolt (or take one out of the throttle body cover plate), wrap the threads in tape and put the bolt in a vise grip pliers and use the head of the bolt as the socket.

                  As noted, with a good fuse for the AIR pump, you won't get an SES light. But, if you delete the EGR, you run a chance of getting a light for DTC 32, low EGR flow. That pops up in about 25% of the OBD-I EGR removals. If you get the code, you can either have the PCM programmed to eliminate it, or you can wire up a spoof circuit that inserts a resistor in the MAP sensor signal circuit when the EGR vacuum solenoid is supposed to activate.

                  If you also remove the EGR vacuum solenoid, you will get DTC 27 for the missing solenoid. You measure the resistance on the solenoid and put a resistor of that size in the harness connector for the solenoid. Don't forget to put a small vacuum cap (1/8"??) over the nipple on the intake manifold for the EGR vacuum line.
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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