Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

daytime running lights

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • daytime running lights

    I am having a serious problem with both of my daytime running lights on a 1999 Trans Am. Like many of you I have replaced my bulbs numerous times. Last year I had both sockets changed by a mechanic. Now my left light will not work on daytime mode nor will the turn signal work, but when I turn on my fog lights it will light up. Any solutions to this new problem and the old problem of replacing bulbs?
    Blue 1999 Trans Am, MODS- K&N Filter, Custom Air Lid, Alpine Sound System, Flowmaster Muffler, Richmond 3.73 gears. Future MODS - Mid Length Headers, Stall Convertor, Hypertech Power Programmer III.

  • #2
    I am not that familiar with the wiring scheme here, but it sounds to me like you have a bad ground. I would check the harness and connectors to make sure you have good continuity.

    I HATE electrical problems, especially intermittent ones!
    2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
    "Black, the fastest color"

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the input, I will check that. Someone esle has mentioned to me that there are two conductors in the socket and one may have some corrosion and gave me the solution of pouring coke into it and letting it dry. Not sure about trying that. Another mentioned the sockets lack the ability to keep moisture out and that may be the problem. Do either of these sound familiar? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Last resort is to order two new sockets and replace them myself. Mechanic charged $325.00 last year to replace 2 sockets.
      Blue 1999 Trans Am, MODS- K&N Filter, Custom Air Lid, Alpine Sound System, Flowmaster Muffler, Richmond 3.73 gears. Future MODS - Mid Length Headers, Stall Convertor, Hypertech Power Programmer III.

      Comment


      • #4
        Forget about the Coke. Just go to your nearest Radio shack or electronics place and get some electrical contact cleaner. Works wonders for copper contacts.


        LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

        Comment


        • #5
          I went through a ton of bulbs when I first got my 97. I quickly realized it was moisture condensating inside of the housing. I removed the little rubber boots from my drainholes and that fixed having to change bulbs every two weeks.

          If you don't have the built-in drainholes, drill some.

          Comment


          • #6
            Daytime Running Lights - Wiring problem?

            Ok, this morning I pulled the socket on the driver's side. I pulled the bulb and both filaments were intact. I checked the socket and appeared it had very little corrosion, but I cleaned it anyways. Put the bulb back in and tried it again, same problem. Thought I should check all three wires going into the socket with a test light. On daytime running mode only, only one wire showed power. On fog light mode, two wires showed power. The third wire would never show power. The left rear turn signal was operating correctly. I am clueless on wiring problems and need some serious help.
            Blue 1999 Trans Am, MODS- K&N Filter, Custom Air Lid, Alpine Sound System, Flowmaster Muffler, Richmond 3.73 gears. Future MODS - Mid Length Headers, Stall Convertor, Hypertech Power Programmer III.

            Comment


            • #7
              I am guessing, here- don't have the FSM in front of me- but, that third wire, I would think, needs to be the ground for the two hots. Make sure it is reliably grounded so the bulbs will have a complete circuit.

              From your description before, sounds like the bulbs may have been getting to ground through another path. That third wire most likely goes back to a common grounding point or tab, where multiple items are grounded. I had one corrode before, disabling the ABS. If you know someone that has acess to the factory manual, they could tell you where the grounding points are- otherwise, you will have to follow the wire- Did I say I hated electrical problems?
              2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
              "Black, the fastest color"

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the info, Willy. I am going today to pickup a service manual from Parts America. I don't understand one thing though. Why would the bulbs ground through another circuit and then one day, change the ground. That baffles me. I tried to follow the harness the socket is wired into, lost it in the jungle. Next week I am attempting to change the headlight motor gear from a stripped out plastic one to the brass gear talked about in the forum. Got the brass gears in yesterday. Good luck to me! The last car I worked on this much was a '79 Z28. Much easier! ( I hate electrical problems too!!!)
                Blue 1999 Trans Am, MODS- K&N Filter, Custom Air Lid, Alpine Sound System, Flowmaster Muffler, Richmond 3.73 gears. Future MODS - Mid Length Headers, Stall Convertor, Hypertech Power Programmer III.

                Comment

                Working...
                X