For the LT1 guys just wondering what temp your cars run at. I don't have a 160 stat and just wondering what temps you run in bumper to bumper traffic. Thanks.
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With the stock 180deg 'stat, or even with the 160 'stat and stock fan on/off temps, it isn't unusual for the gauge to sit in the middle (210degF) or slightly above in stop-n-go traffic on a hot day. The stock PCM program turns the first fan on at 226degF and the second one on at 235degF, so the factory isn't too concerned about those kind of temps.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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It will get to about 210 if i forget to turn on the fans manually1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
1 of 463
LT4 knock module
D. Goetz sub-frame connectors.
strut tower brace
SLP fan switch
160* t/stat
Drilled and slotted rotors/ Earls SS brake lines/ Hawk pads
DMS 1.5" progressive lowering springs
Pictures Here
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Thank you, that made me feel SOOO much better. But still want to hear where you run at, everyone. Thanks. Thanks!!!!!97 SS #C007
Polo Green w/ tan leather A4
SLP headers, Loudmouth, Koni SA, Spohn LCA, Spohn PHR, Spohn relo brackets, pro-kit, B&M Stage II Shift Kit, air foil, 160 therm, LT4 KM, BFG KDW
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160 cruising and in stop and go with the fans on. The SLP manual fan switch was my first mod and one of the best for piece of mind. I have cruised Las Vegas Blvd in Aug. with no problems
1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
1 of 463
LT4 knock module
D. Goetz sub-frame connectors.
strut tower brace
SLP fan switch
160* t/stat
Drilled and slotted rotors/ Earls SS brake lines/ Hawk pads
DMS 1.5" progressive lowering springs
Pictures Here
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With a 160º thermostat and reprogram of the PCM for lower fan turn on, I run about 174º when moving, temps climb slightly when stopped. Usually not more that 186º. This is in Florida summer heat. In the winter, the car tends to run 169º moving, 179º stopped. With the fans programmed for factory temps, the car will run the same when moving, but temps climb around to around 195º stopped. The fan programming makes a difference. Same for running the A/C. Turning on the air also starts the aux. fan for the condenser, keeping airflow up and temps down. I am thinking about wiring a manual switch to kick in the A/C fan without activating the A/C for use in the staging lanes or in heavy traffic.
With a 170º thermostat (yes, they make them), the car runs about 10º warmer in all instances than a 160º thermostat.
With a 180º thermostat, add another 10º all across the board.
I was suprised it worked out to be that close, but it makes sense. The car seems to run 15º warmer than the thermostat at cruising, 25-30º warmer when stopped provided no other variables.
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I was never Really concerned it's just I noticed the temps climbing and climbing the other day and they had never moved before. i guess I never noticed and caught me by surprise. This makes me feel alot better. Thanks. I'll get the SLP fan switch and a 160 stat soon. Thank you all!!!!!!!97 SS #C007
Polo Green w/ tan leather A4
SLP headers, Loudmouth, Koni SA, Spohn LCA, Spohn PHR, Spohn relo brackets, pro-kit, B&M Stage II Shift Kit, air foil, 160 therm, LT4 KM, BFG KDW
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Low coolant tempertures may make you feel more comfortable, but are really not necessary. The factory designed the engine to run at the mid-point of the gauge.... that gave them the best combination of emissions and fuel economy. If you use synthetic oil, running at 210-220degF all day is not going to hurt the engine or the oil.
Reducing the coolant temperature increases emissions (lets say 10% increase in unburned HC's for a 20degF coolant temp) and reduces fuel economy, but I can't quantify that. I don't think either the emissions issue or the fuel economy issue is worth worrying about. However, if you were marginal on passing an emissions test with stock temps, lowering them might push you over the edge to failure.
Reducing the coolant temperature also means you are removing more heat from the combustion chambers, so you are REDUCING POWER OUTPUT. You may regain the power loss, and in fact pick up a little MORE POWER, if you see a reduced heat pickup in the intake manifold/head runners for the incoming air, AND if you crank in a degree or two more timing advance. The reverse flow, aluminum head LT1 seems to show a positive power gain from this..... but again, it isn't the big deal people make it out to be.
My coolant temp is set at 195degF. That's where we were able to come up with the maximum power levels, after playing with A/F ratio, ignition timing, octane and coolant levels. Too cold is not necessarily better.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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