Right now i'm fighting a problem with my engine overheating under certain conditions. I have to be in stop and go traffic and with my a/c running. I've checked my fans (both are turning), i've replaced my overflow resivior (the other had a hole in it), and I have purchased a 160 deg. t-stat. A while back I had my engine replaced and noticed it getting a little warmer than it did before (so I think they replaced my 160 deg. t-stat with a stock one). I also noticed that my lower radiator hose was collapsed a little before I started it, but once it warms up it expands back to proper size and shape. My only other thoughts is 1) T-Stat isn't opening all the way 2) Junk built up on the outside of the radiator 3) Junk clogging the inside of cooling system. Any other thoughts?
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'95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed -
Two things I would check first.......be sure to bleed the air from the cooling system, often the proceedure takes several times. It is a required proceedure due to the design of our cooling systems. Also, a pressure check wouldn't be a bad idea. Of course a complete flush and fill couldn't hurt either. It's a tough call when someone else does the work.
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What is the temperature on the gauge when you feel it is "overheating"?Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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It's not actually getting in the red (because I shut the a/c off when it gets close), but sometimes it gets all the way up to 235 before I shut it off.Originally posted by Injuneer
On a side note: Looks like I don't have to worry about it overheating for a while...my ac just went out...I'm pretty sure it's my compressor because it's been making a rattling noise for a while. Which two prongs do I jumper to bypass the low pressure sensor so I can check?
P.S. Thanks for the info Joe. On a flush/fill, is it better to get it done professionally or do the kits work just as well?'95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmedComment
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235 is just when the high speed fans come on. That's not overheating.Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.comComment
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I found the diagram and the clutch isn't engagingOriginally posted by Aaron4TAMU
. Anyone know how hard it is to remove the compressor? I've got friends in the a/c business, so the recovery/recharge wouldn't be a problem.
'95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmedComment
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But I remember (before the engine replacement) my temp never got much higher than 185...even in the summer with the a/c on.Originally posted by Rob B (shoebox)'95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmedComment
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that's because when the A/C works, the other fan automatically comes on to maintain airflow across the condensor. You'll find the car runs cooler with the a/c running than without.Originally posted by Aaron4TAMUComment
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