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bad brake rotors or something worse?

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  • bad brake rotors or something worse?

    Well, the rear right brake makes an annoying grinding sound and the pads are like 3 mm left.
    I have noticed deep grooves that look like they were made by the rivets from the brake pads, but only on the inside of the rear right rotor and on the outside of the rear left rotor. the other sides are ok.

    So before I change the rotors and pads, which cost $450 for the lot over here (ac delco 150 each rotor, and 120 for the pads ), I was wondering if there might be a bigger problem with the axles or something because of the uneven damage to the rotors. its like the rear axle is pushing on the brakes from right to left if that is even possible

    car in question is the 95 formula

    ..and what about the prices for parts over here
    93 t/a A4 3.23s
    95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
    99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
    99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
    97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
    93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
    00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

  • #2
    Well you got 11 year old calipers and they might not center real well. Take them apart and go through them and see if the pins are all corroded and locked up. You might need new calipers too! More money, more fun!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
      More money, more fun!
      Thanks for the reply, i am going to buy the rotors and pads tomorrow, i was worried that they will get ruined

      How would i check if the calipers are still good?

      I ve had the same problem with the 93 t/a ,but i am pretty much sure it was the pads not being replaced in time and the rivets scoring the rotors (front as well). Maybe it is a common problem with 4th gens?

      If I find a more serious problem i will probably get rid of the Formula and save money to buy my dream car , a black 02 Trans Am WS6, it will be easier for me then to spend a lot of money repairing that one . and the 93 t/a is staying too
      93 t/a A4 3.23s
      95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
      99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
      99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
      97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
      93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
      00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

      Comment


      • #4
        the rear calipers (and the front!) need to be able to float freely on their bolts- they actually use a special high-temp lube. there is a piston in only one side of the caliper; pressure is applied to the other side pad because the whole caliper body moves opposite of the piston.
        It is common for older cars calipers to get frozen in position by corrosion. There are actually aftermarket suppliers that make stainless steel brake bolts. It is more common for ther rears to freeze, because they move less, are used less in light braking.
        You will see how the caliper is supposed to float after you disassemble it. Be sure to use the correct lube when you put it back to gether.
        2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
        "Black, the fastest color"

        Comment


        • #5
          would you buy brake rotors from a junkyard?
          I found rear rotors for $80 the pair, came off some crashed firebird. price is really good compared to the new ones but you never know with junkyard parts
          93 t/a A4 3.23s
          95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
          99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
          99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
          97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
          93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
          00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

          Comment


          • #6
            Mostly depends on condition and price- you want them to be thick- the more stock, the better- If they have been re-surfaced, no, thanks.
            Even better if they were aftermarket slotted or drilled- you may get an upgraded part at a good price- in that case I probably would-

            Mostly, with rotors, you want mass- as in thermal mass, to disapate the heat produced by braking. That is why high-performance stuff is bigger- able to soak up more energy
            2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
            "Black, the fastest color"

            Comment

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