Bad Hubs?

[Christopherrr]

I curbed my car the other day...not bad, okay, any curbing is bad, but it was just a swipe, up and over. I noticed pulling to the left and figure it was time for an alignment. Prior to doing so, I noticed excessive wear on the passenger front tire (the side that I curbed Victoria). I took her to the shop for an alignment and correct any camber issues I might have...but it never happened. The machnic said that my hub was done for.

I don't have an issue replacing the assemblies, but how do you know it's bad or not.

[Joe 1320]

I curbed my car the other day...not bad, okay, any curbing is bad, but it was just a swipe, up and over. I noticed pulling to the left and figure it was time for an alignment. Prior to doing so, I noticed excessive wear on the passenger front tire (the side that I curbed Victoria). I took her to the shop for an alignment and correct any camber issues I might have...but it never happened. The machnic said that my hub was done for.

I don't have an issue replacing the assemblies, but how do you know it's bad or not.

Jack up the car, grab hold of the suspect wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position also the 9 and 3 position and check for play. A bad hub bearing is also known to rumble as you drive, usually getting worse as you turn. It's an easy R&R, simply remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way, slide off the brake disk, disconnect the abs sensor harness at the hub, unbolt the 4 bolts holding the hub to the spindle and it comes right off. Installation is the reverse, the hub already comes with a new abs sensor installed too.

[Z Ya Later]

Jack up the car, grab hold of the suspect wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position also the 9 and 3 position and check for play. A bad hub bearing is also known to rumble as you drive, usually getting worse as you turn. It's an easy R&R, simply remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way, slide off the brake disk, disconnect the abs sensor harness at the hub, unbolt the 4 bolts holding the hub to the spindle and it comes right off. Installation is the reverse, the hub already comes with a new abs sensor installed too.

As Joe said, its a piece-of-cake to replace. It should only take about an hour or so. Think of it as going one step further than a rotor replacement .

[Christopherrr]

Okay, I replaced the hubs. Easy greasy...I figured it would be. Thanks. Anywho, I noticed play still on my right passenger wheel/tire. I traced it to the tie-rod endlink. When you wiggle the wheel you can hear it clink-clang right where the tie-rod meets the arm. The deflection is quite noticeable.

Now, I wished that ^^^ was my suspension, but circled is the link that I mean. Not sure if I'm using the right terms...pictures always works best.

Would I have to replace the whole rack, tie-rod, or end link? If so, would it be something I could do myself? I don't want an alignment without fixing all that is needed. Then again, an alignment would be worthless.

Oh, the bearing-hubs seemed to be fine. But with 211K on the clock I guess its long overdue.

Preciate the help...as always.

[Z Ya Later]

I believe you can just replace the tie-rod end.

[Christopherrr]

I believe you can just replace the tie-rod end.

That was what I was thinking.

I will refer to my Haynes Manual tomorrow. Further questions shall be posted. LOL!

[fastTa]

You may have damaged the outer tie rod end ball stud. It is an easy R&R.

Before you even start, crack loose the jam nut that holds the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod end. Then just remove the cotter pin on top of the outer tie rod end ball stud, loosen the slotted hex nut (castle nut) and drop the outer tie rod end ball stud. Then just unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. You will need to get a universal steering linkage puller to remove the ball stud from the steering knuckle. J-24319-01 according to Alldata. Most parts stores will let you borrow one.



It's called a puller but it actually pushes the ball stud out through the bottom of the steering knuckle. DO NOT attempt to hammer the ball stud out.

Alldata says 35 ft/lbs for the slotted hex nut on the ball stud and 50 ft/lbs for the jam nut. Jam nut should be 22mm.

[Christopherrr]

You may have damaged the outer tie rod end ball stud. It is an easy R&R.

Before you even start, crack loose the jam nut that holds the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod end. Then just remove the cotter pin on top of the outer tie rod end ball stud, loosen the slotted hex nut (castle nut) and drop the outer tie rod end ball stud. Then just unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. You will need to get a universal steering linkage puller to remove the ball stud from the steering knuckle. J-24319-01 according to Alldata. Most parts stores will let you borrow one.



It's called a puller but it actually pushes the ball stud out through the bottom of the steering knuckle. DO NOT attempt to hammer the ball stud out.

Alldata says 35 ft/lbs for the slotted hex nut on the ball stud and 50 ft/lbs for the jam nut. Jam nut should be 22mm.

Diddly noted. Ah, the knowledge here.

[fastTa]

Diddly noted. Ah, the knowledge here.

Silly holy roller Flanders!

[Christopherrr]

This boils my blood...not really. I finished the job...quite easy.

I marked the original positions of the jam nut and end link...removed the old linkage and installed the new ones. The job was a sinch.

Everything felt tighter off the bat, but as I was rolling down my driveway and into the street I hear a pop. I'm thinking possible adjustments...but I take it slow, seeing if I can't recreate the pop. I do...over bumps and uneven surfaces. I take her back into the garage and check all my work. I double checked all bolts and nuts. I even went back to the hubs and checked and tighten everything down. Everything seemed solid. So back I go, and again popping. But only under flexing over bumps or uneven surfaces.

Abrupt manuvers don't create the pop...only going over bumps and uneven surfaces.

What could be causing this? All other componets seem to be in good working order. Gorments and bushings seem to be fine. Thanks again guys...

[fastTa]

This boils my blood...not really. I finished the job...quite easy.

I marked the original positions of the jam nut and end link...removed the old linkage and installed the new ones. The job was a sinch.

Everything felt tighter off the bat, but as I was rolling down my driveway and into the street I hear a pop. I'm thinking possible adjustments...but I take it slow, seeing if I can't recreate the pop. I do...over bumps and uneven surfaces. I take her back into the garage and check all my work. I double checked all bolts and nuts. I even went back to the hubs and checked and tighten everything down. Everything seemed solid. So back I go, and again popping. But only under flexing over bumps or uneven surfaces.

Abrupt manuvers don't create the pop...only going over bumps and uneven surfaces.

What could be causing this? All other componets seem to be in good working order. Gorments and bushings seem to be fine. Thanks again guys...

Chris, if have never replaced your upper or lower ball joints......it's time. With 200k on them, they were likely pretty tired as it is making them even more vulnerable by being curbed.

Normally alignment shops can test how good the upper and lower ball joints are by observing wheel deflection by a laser, but many shops still do it the old fashioned way by using a dial indicator.

To check the upper ball joint, place a dial indiactor right up against the bottom of the wheel. Grab the wheel and push in on the bottom of the tire while pulling out at the top. Read the gauge. Horizontal deflection on the dial indicator should not exceed 0.125" (3.18mm.)

To check the lower ball joint, place the dial indicator against the top of the wheel. Pry between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle while reading the dial indicator. Vertical deflection on the dial indicator should not exceed 0.046875" (1.19mm.)

The R&R of the upper and lower ball joints is much like the outer tie rod ends you just replaced. The only exception is that the upper ball joint is riveted to the upper A-arm and you must drill the rivet heads off and knock out the rivets with a punch or screwdriver.

There is a separate ball joint puller tool for the upper and lower, but just like the ball stud remover you used on the OTRE, you will repeat the same type procedure on the upper and lower ball joint to press them out of the upper A-arm/steering knuckle.

The upper ball joint set will come with replacement nuts/bolts to secure the upper ball joint back to the upper A-arm.

Torque specs are:
39 ft/lbs for the upper
81 ft/lbs for the lower

[Christopherrr]

Chris, if have never replaced your upper or lower ball joints......it's time. With 200k on them, they were likely pretty tired as it is making them even more vulnerable by being curbed.

Normally alignment shops can test how good the upper and lower ball joints are by observing wheel deflection by a laser, but many shops still do it the old fashioned way by using a dial indicator.

To check the upper ball joint, place a dial indiactor right up against the bottom of the wheel. Grab the wheel and push in on the bottom of the tire while pulling out at the top. Read the gauge. Horizontal deflection on the dial indicator should not exceed 0.125" (3.18mm.)

To check the lower ball joint, place the dial indicator against the top of the wheel. Pry between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle while reading the dial indicator. Vertical deflection on the dial indicator should not exceed 0.046875" (1.19mm.)

The R&R of the upper and lower ball joints is much like the outer tie rod ends you just replaced. The only exception is that the upper ball joint is riveted to the upper A-arm and you must drill the rivet heads off and knock out the rivets with a punch or screwdriver.

There is a separate ball joint puller tool for the upper and lower, but just like the ball stud remover you used on the OTRE, you will repeat the same type procedure on the upper and lower ball joint to press them out of the upper A-arm/steering knuckle.

The upper ball joint set will come with replacement nuts/bolts to secure the upper ball joint back to the upper A-arm.

Torque specs are:
39 ft/lbs for the upper
81 ft/lbs for the lower

Yay! You rule Kevin. We'll see how this goes. Thanks.