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  • Stall Converter

    My step dad told me that instead of putting in a new differential and a higher gear ratio, he said putting in a stall converter would give me better performance. I'm just going to do both if the stall converter is worth it. But I just want to see what you guys think.
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/Iceslim0

  • #2
    Both definitly will make a big difference, but be prepared to then upgrade the chassis & tires, because a gear and converter will both make traction a problem.

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    • #3
      Yes, a converter can definitely help the performance of the car. By allowing you to rev the engine higher into it's higher output range, you will increase the performance of the car. Doing both would be idea.
      LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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      • #4
        That's what I want to do I think. I'm going to do the differential and the stall converter. I've got nice tires already and the chassis is good and getting better. I noticed that there are a lot of different kinds of converters ranging from like 150$ to 900$. You guys got any suggestions?
        http://www.cardomain.com/id/Iceslim0

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        • #5
          Don't get the $150 one

          Look at Coan, Yank, Precision Industries and skip the B&M budget stuff. You want one that's furnace brazed, got a thrust bearing inside, kevlar clutch, billet anti-balooning" front cover. Maybe stay 3000 or under for stall for a street car. Precision gives you a free restall.

          SAve money for a cooler & deep pan.

          Kevin FastTA will probably be able to offer some good suggestions.

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          • #6
            I was going to get an aluminum radiator with twin fans. I never thought of getting a deep oil pan.

            I don't need to save money
            http://www.cardomain.com/id/Iceslim0

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            • #7
              The factory radiator will do just fine unless you are going to be making some silly HP.....especially if you take a significant portion of the heat away from the radiator by running a stand alone trans cooler.

              It were my car I would use a Hughes, Yank, or a PI Vigilante....in that order of preference.

              Don't even waste your time or money going with anything less than a 3300-3400 with today's 2 and 3 piston converters. You will barely notice a difference between the stock converter and a true stall of 3600 during normal every day driving.....trust me. Where you will notice a difference is when you stand on the gas and at the track.

              I had a custom Vigilante converter in my TA behind a 383" LT1. It was a 4000 stall. It drove perfectly fine on the street back and forth to school and work every day. Dead stop take-offs froma stop sign was nearly like stock just had to give her a tad more gas. The only time I ever even noticed a significant difference was in a parking lot....reversing was just a tad soft but no biggy at all.

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              • #8
                I've heard some different things like don't go over 3000 because you don't need it on the streets and then don't go less than 3300 because I'm wasting my time.
                http://www.cardomain.com/id/Iceslim0

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Iceslim0
                  I've heard some different things like don't go over 3000 because you don't need it on the streets and then don't go less than 3300 because I'm wasting my time.
                  You just have to make sure that the converter you buy is matched to your car. One company's "off the shelf" converter that is advertised to stall at 3000 might actually stall at 4600 in your car. Consequently another company's converter that is advertised to stall at 3400 might only stall at 2400 in your car.

                  There are so many factors of a specific car that go into a company selling you the correct converter for your car and application. Weight of car, rear axle gear ratio, engine displacement, cam duration, trans brake or foot brake, expected torque output, etc., etc.

                  Lot's of people think that if a converter is setup to stall at 3000, that the car will not move until you get the motor up to 3000 RPM's. False. All that means is that the converter will not become hydrostatically "locked" (pump and turbine spinning at saem rate) until 3000 RPM's.

                  Converter efficiency and STR (stall torque ratio) are also very important. Some of the better converters can multiply torque output by upwards of 3:1, meaning that the converter is taking the toruqe output of the motor and multiplying it by whatever the STR of the converter is. To the best of my knowledge, there are still only two companies that have access to GM's $1M transmission dyno; Yank and Precision Industries. The only way to accurately determine the STR and a converter's RPM efiiciency range and percentage, is to use that trans dyno.

                  If you go with a Yank, PI, or Hughes, don't go under 3300 or you will be disappointed.

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