My step dad told me that instead of putting in a new differential and a higher gear ratio, he said putting in a stall converter would give me better performance. I'm just going to do both if the stall converter is worth it. But I just want to see what you guys think.
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Don't get the $150 one
Look at Coan, Yank, Precision Industries and skip the B&M budget stuff. You want one that's furnace brazed, got a thrust bearing inside, kevlar clutch, billet anti-balooning" front cover. Maybe stay 3000 or under for stall for a street car. Precision gives you a free restall.
SAve money for a cooler & deep pan.
Kevin FastTA will probably be able to offer some good suggestions.
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fastTa
The factory radiator will do just fine unless you are going to be making some silly HP.....especially if you take a significant portion of the heat away from the radiator by running a stand alone trans cooler.
It were my car I would use a Hughes, Yank, or a PI Vigilante....in that order of preference.
Don't even waste your time or money going with anything less than a 3300-3400 with today's 2 and 3 piston converters. You will barely notice a difference between the stock converter and a true stall of 3600 during normal every day driving.....trust me. Where you will notice a difference is when you stand on the gas and at the track.
I had a custom Vigilante converter in my TA behind a 383" LT1. It was a 4000 stall. It drove perfectly fine on the street back and forth to school and work every day. Dead stop take-offs froma stop sign was nearly like stock just had to give her a tad more gas. The only time I ever even noticed a significant difference was in a parking lot....reversing was just a tad soft but no biggy at all.
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fastTa
Originally posted by Iceslim0I've heard some different things like don't go over 3000 because you don't need it on the streets and then don't go less than 3300 because I'm wasting my time.
There are so many factors of a specific car that go into a company selling you the correct converter for your car and application. Weight of car, rear axle gear ratio, engine displacement, cam duration, trans brake or foot brake, expected torque output, etc., etc.
Lot's of people think that if a converter is setup to stall at 3000, that the car will not move until you get the motor up to 3000 RPM's. False. All that means is that the converter will not become hydrostatically "locked" (pump and turbine spinning at saem rate) until 3000 RPM's.
Converter efficiency and STR (stall torque ratio) are also very important. Some of the better converters can multiply torque output by upwards of 3:1, meaning that the converter is taking the toruqe output of the motor and multiplying it by whatever the STR of the converter is. To the best of my knowledge, there are still only two companies that have access to GM's $1M transmission dyno; Yank and Precision Industries. The only way to accurately determine the STR and a converter's RPM efiiciency range and percentage, is to use that trans dyno.
If you go with a Yank, PI, or Hughes, don't go under 3300 or you will be disappointed.
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