Header Install Progress!

[TraceZ]

SLP Headers arrived today...

So far I have:

removed y-pipe
removed exhaust manifolds
removed alternator
removed starter
removed dipstick
removed battery
removed STB
removed spark plugs
removed plastic covers on steering linkage
removed EGR tube

Installed passenger side header w/oxygen sensor

It's time to go take a shower and crawl in bed.
I'll finish it up for the most part tomorrow.
All that took 3.5 hours. Not too bad, but I'm pooped!
I figure another 3.5 hours of work and it will be ready to go to the exhaust shop and get the cat welded up.

[raroZ28]

You're going to flip when you hear it.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

SLP Headers arrived today...

So far I have:

removed y-pipe
removed exhaust manifolds
removed alternator
removed starter
removed dipstick
removed battery
removed STB
removed spark plugs
removed plastic covers on steering linkage


Installed passenger side header w/oxygen sensor
It's time to go take a shower and crawl in bed.
I'll finish it up for the most part tomorrow.
All that took 3.5 hours. Not too bad, but I'm pooped!
I figure another 3.5 hours of work and it will be ready to go to the exhaust shop and get the cat welded up.

That's good progress Tracy! You definitely have the hard part done already. I remember my install being much worse, but I did headers, cat, supercharger (with ignition & fuel pump), plugs, wires, valve springs, & rocker arms at the same time and it took me a LOT longer.

Nice to work on a clean car, huh? Everything comes apart the way it's supposed to

[TraceZ]

Nice to work on a clean car, huh? Everything comes apart the way it's supposed to

You aren't kidding there, man! This would of taken twice as long if everything was rusted up. She looks like new underneith! Not a single stuck bolt!

All I need is a O2 sensor socket. One of them wouldn't come out with my crescent wrench.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Tracy, are you trying to remove the O2 from the passenger's side manifold? I couldn't get mine out with an O2 socket because there is just no room to fit anything there - so I threw it away. I bought new O2s anyway from Summit for around $90/pair.

[Joe 1320]

I would suggest breaking in the headers with the old sensors. For some reason, there has been instances where new O2s for some reason die quickly just after installation of ceramic coated headers. The only thing I can think of is that there must be some agents released from the heat when the headers are new that fouls O2 sensors.

[TraceZ]

I was able to get out 1 of the old O2 sensors. So, I had to go buy a new one. $54 at the stealership.

Things I have noticed so far...

the #5 plug is a PITA.

Getting the flange positioned right where the y bolts to the drivers side header does not seem easy. I might have to do a bit of grinding on that flange.

I'm nervous about how close some wires are to the headers. The harness that comes down to the starter area is actually touching the headers, and that is after I re-routed it through the hole in the engine mount like the instructions said.. I put some firesleave on that part of the harness, I hope it is OK. Also, on the passenger side it looks like the ABS wheel sensor wire is really close.

I covered all the plug wires in firesleave. I basically took a length of it, slit it open down its side and used it to go along each side of the block and contain all the plug wires. Then I used some light gauge copper wire to hold it in place. I can honestly say I'm not the least bit concerned that I could ever possibly burn a spark plug wire.

These headers are ceramic coated inside and out, how hot are they going to get? How much effort do you other guys put into protecting wiring near your headers? Is it a common problem? I'd hate to have my wiring harness get destroyed.

Also, the LT1 dipstick tube can kiss my ass. It is a pain to remove, and a pain to install. The little bracket broke off mine and we had a heck of a time getting it to fully seat. Also, the rubber topper for it cracked in a few places from us messing with it.

I'm also kinda curious to find out if the wire for the drivers side O2 sensor is long enough. It looks like it might come up a little short. The plug for it is back by the clutch, but it looks like I may be able to open up the harness and give myself some extra slack if I need to.

To make a long story short, the headers are in. The y-pipe is not done yet. All that is left is the y-pipe and AIR fittings. Then reinstall the alternator, battery, STB.

Some people have a hard time understanding that to me, this is actually fun.

[ryan34]

Some people have a hard time understanding that to me, this is actually fun.

I'll make sure to come to you for my install then How's half price sound? Afterall I do have to charge you if you gonna have fun with it.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

I've had to deal with ALL of those issues for the past 6 years that I had the headers, and I have a few answers for ya.

I was able to get out 1 of the old O2 sensors. So, I had to go buy a new one. $54 at the stealership.

This is one issue I didn't have, sorry.

Things I have noticed so far...

the #5 plug is a PITA.

Yupper - that one is sucky. I have gotten to where I can do all the plugs from the top, but that one took me along time to do. I got it in there using the short rubber hose on a long phillips screwdriver, but I was cursing a lot and did manage to drop one of the race plugs and crack it. If I do that plug from underneath the car, it's not so bad.

Getting the flange positioned right where the y bolts to the drivers side header does not seem easy. I might have to do a bit of grinding on that flange.

I tightened up the inboard bolt first on the flange with the outside bolt left somewhat loose, and then turned it counterclockwise into position so it misses the crossmember, and then tightened the outside bolt to draw it up evenly.

I'm nervous about how close some wires are to the headers. The harness that comes down to the starter area is actually touching the headers, and that is after I re-routed it through the hole in the engine mount like the instructions said.. I put some firesleave on that part of the harness, I hope it is OK. Also, on the passenger side it looks like the ABS wheel sensor wire is really close.

I assume you're talking about the knock sensor, ground, and starter wires. I initially ran that bundle down next to the dipstick and tie wrapped it to the dipstick to keep it out of harms way. I also fire sleeved it. When I rebuilt my engine this spring, I lengthened all the wires and routed them around back of the engine and under the header from the back side. Looks better and not so close to the tubes.

I covered all the plug wires in firesleave. I basically took a length of it, slit it open down its side and used it to go along each side of the block and contain all the plug wires. Then I used some light gauge copper wire to hold it in place. I can honestly say I'm not the least bit concerned that I could ever possibly burn a spark plug wire.

You will probably be OK there because of the new wires & firesleeve, but normally metal on a spark plug wire will try to ground. It's best to slip it over the boot if you can, and if you have to tie it on, use a tie wrap lower on the wire where it isn't so hot

These headers are ceramic coated inside and out, how hot are they going to get? How much effort do you other guys put into protecting wiring near your headers? Is it a common problem? I'd hate to have my wiring harness get destroyed.

You need to do everything to protect the wires, but the silicone boots near the headers should be OK unless they touch

Also, the LT1 dipstick tube can kiss my ass. It is a pain to remove, and a pain to install. The little bracket broke off mine and we had a heck of a time getting it to fully seat. Also, the rubber topper for it cracked in a few places from us messing with it.

Yep, it needs to be bent up and you have to keep the bottom part straight and not kink it. That's definitely one thing where a guy on the top and one guy underneath can do a better job of getting it in there

I'm also kinda curious to find out if the wire for the drivers side O2 sensor is long enough. It looks like it might come up a little short. The plug for it is back by the clutch, but it looks like I may be able to open up the harness and give myself some extra slack if I need to.

This wiring was too short to reach on my car. I initially lengthened the sensor wires, which was the wrong thing to do cause I couldn't solder the stainless one (it worked fine however), later I just lengthened the car side harness and all is good.

To make a long story short, the headers are in. The y-pipe is not done yet. All that is left is the y-pipe and AIR fittings. Then reinstall the alternator, battery, STB.

Some people have a hard time understanding that to me, this is actually fun.

Have fun, then. If you want, I can come by and supervise

[TraceZ]

I'm up in Appleton now for a wedding. I'll be gone the next 2 weekends as well. It looks like I'll be finishing the job at night, during the week. Thanks for the offer to "supervise", though!.... unless you want to come up mid week sometime in the evening. LOL..

[Christopherrr]

Ahhhh...the good old header install. I don't know how hard it is for LT1's, but mine took 3 full days. LOL! Talking about a jigsaw puzzle; trying to squeeze LT's in there! I was afraid to tackle it myself...I was like "I'm suppose the get these in there!?"



Looks like you're taking your time and doing it right...

[TraceZ]

Ok, the Alternator is reinstalled and I'm confident that the wires going to the starter are pretected well. They are double wrapped in firesleeve. I'm also done hooking up the AIR valves and hoses. All it needs now is the y-pipe, battery and coolant filled.

Kevin - did you do anything to protect your wires coming up from the ABS wheel sensors? They seem pretty close to the headers, but they dont touch them and there is some factory heat tape wrapping them up, kinda-sorta.

I forgot to mention earlier... Getting the stage 8 locking header bolts installed was not as hard as it could of been. Granted, it was more time consuming than regular bolts would of been, but it was not too terrible and i'm sure it will be well worth it.

[Joe 1320]

anything to protect your wires coming up from the ABS wheel sensors? They seem pretty close to the headers, but they dont touch them and there is some factory heat tape wrapping them up, kinda-sorta.
.

I bought extra thermal shielding for around the heater box and hoses, I also used some for the abs wires too.

[TraceZ]

I bought extra thermal shielding for around the heater box and hoses, I also used some for the abs wires too.

What type of thermal shielding? Linky?

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Kevin - did you do anything to protect your wires coming up from the ABS wheel sensors? They seem pretty close to the headers, but they dont touch them and there is some factory heat tape wrapping them up, kinda-sorta.

No, I would have to look and see what you're talking about. I didn't have any other wires near the headers except that bunch that was near the dipstick, which I moved. Some of the wires along the Driver's side inner fender are a little near the headers, but I've had no probs there.

Regarding the AIR chck valves - I had one of my my check valves burn up after a while and that, in turn allowed the hose to burn up from exhaust coming out. This was on my way back from the Minnesota car show in '02. Just be aware that can happen.