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Changing rear U-joint

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  • Changing rear U-joint

    alright guys well I bought the 30$ rear u-joint for my driveshaft. I got the
    driveshaft out just fine and dandy, but 2 of those little round things that
    are inside the shaft itself will not come out.

    I got this shitty manual which has been of no use whatsoever which
    says you need to remove some C-clamp things. However, when I put
    it into a vice to try and get em out, I ended up breaking the vice.. And yes
    I did put a smaller socket on one end of the old u-joint, and a much larger
    one on the other side of the ujoint.

    Is there some trick to doing this? Keep in mind this is the rear ujoint.

    Thanks much,
    -Erik

    ---

    2002 6spd Z28 5.7l

  • #2
    The stock U-joints have an internal nylon lock that has to be melted out with a torch. You can press and pound the crap out of them, and they won't budge until you melt out the nylon.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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