I havn't had a low coolant light come on since I filled it to the top where it overflows when cap is put on (which I didn't do in the past), but I'm thinking it might be a bad cap which is possible. I'll wait to see if my light comes on again first then check it out. What I dont understand is if that means I had air in the system in the past why didn't the car overheat?
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94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires. -
Depends on where the air actually is. Air in block is bad. The bottom hose is the feed, the top hose is the return. If it were the other way around, as soon as the fluid level dropped, the water pump would suck air and everything quits fast. There is a reason why the coolant level sensor is a couple of inches lower than the top of the radiator. If coolant drops below that point, your chances of an overheat are climbing drastically.Originally posted by EquatorHeat00
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I believe the problem is fixed, and I was thinking the worst for months. (like headgasket-but wasnt getting the symptoms) The antifreeze in the reservor when I checked it actually went up when the car was hot today first time I checked that when the proper amount of coolant was in the radiator. It hasnt done that since last spring when I installed my 160 degree thermostat. I just needed to fill the radiator to the very top.
That explains why I never overheated, and I guess air in the top of the radiator causes it to diminish somehow. (Joe) So happy now! This post can now die!
94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.Comment
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