Well, the 9" is in. It took a total of 3+ days of careful work to make sure everything was installed correctly, and double/triple checking everything. So far, it's the quietest thing I've driven in years. However, I have a minor leak that could be from the drain plug Moser installed on the housing. It may be somewhere else, but I'm still observing. Here are the steps I took (note that I may have forgot to write a step, or there may be better procedures, so I won't take responsibilty for any equipment failure, injuries, or anything resulting from following this procedure - always follow Moser's instructions and call them if you have questions). Please feel free to correct/add to it.
0 De-install procedure.
1 Jack the rear of the car and support it securely on jack stands to the frame. Place blocks/chalks on the front wheels to prevent the car from moving
2 Remove the rear tires (use the hand brake to hold the tires when removing the lugs, if necessary)
3 Remove the torque arm from both sides.
4 Remove the driveshaft
5 Unbolt the brake calipers from the rear (2 bolts each), then hang them to avoid stress on the brake lines
6 Remove the rotors and unbolt the caliper mounts, which are being held on by the axle ends (4 bolts each)
7 Unbolt the rear cover
8 Turn an axle so that the small pinion bolt is exposed. Remove it, then remove the rod. You may need a Haynes/Chilton/Helm to see this.
9 Rotate the rear so the large opening on the posi unit is exposed. You may have to keep moving/rotating it so the springs in the posi retract
10 Remove the C-clips with pliers
11 Pull the axles out (may feel stuck, so you have to pull pretty hard).
12 Remove the caliper mount/backing plates from the axles.
13 Get the bearings pressed on the axles with the caliper mount, shims, bearings, press rings in that order, from the outside to in. Shims are only for 93-97 brakes
14 Make sure the caliper mounts are on the right direction and corresponding axle, as the axles are different lengths. Follow Moser's diagram
15 On your current rear, unbolt the rest of the "extras" including the brake hoses, ABS sensor, etc.
16 Support the rear end on jack(s).
17 Unbolt the sway bar, panhard rod, LCAs, and shocks.
18 Slowly let the jack down and remove the springs. Pull the rear out of the way.
19 (Install procedure)
20 It might be wise to check the ring and pinion gears for flush contact - to make sure they were installed correctly.
21 You can check the contact patch of the gears by using a light colored grease, that's safe for the rear. You should see good, even contact.
22 It will also be wise to paint the housing to prevent it from looking rusty with surface rust. You can do this with the casting area of the center section, as well.
23 Tap the axle seals onto the housing axle ends with a big socket/pipe. Make sure they're seated well, even, and provide a good seal when the axles are slipped in.
24 Place the 10 bolts that are serated on the inside, so they'll be "sticking out" of the housing area (where it meets the center section).
25 You may need to use wood washers to pull through the bolts so they'll as least stay on the housing. I wouldn't pull them all the way yet, as you could damage the surface.
26 Bolt the center section to the housing with the gasket.
27 You may bolt on the torque arm mount now, or wait until later depending on how "light" you'd want it when you install it.
28 Make sure the torque arm mount has clearance when running the through-bolts through the center section area.
29 The bolts should probably be tightened to around 25-40 ft-lbs. I couldn't find any specs anywhere, so I did around 30-35.
30 Note that the bolts can be still moving up as you're tightening, which can deceitful when tightening.
31 Place the rear on jack(s) and move it toward underneath the car.
32 Place the springs on top of the mounts on the rear and slowly jack it up to they'll meet the correct spot underneath the car.
33 Bolt the LCAs and shocks so you have extra support.
34 Bolt the torque arm to the mount (install the mount if you haven't already). You may have to slide the the mount on the tranny end to get it to fit length-wise
35 Install the new driveshaft U-joint, if necessary.
36 Check the driveshaft length by bottoming it out on the tranny, then pulling it back to where it will meet the yoke on the rear. You should have 3/4"-1"
37 Make sure to perform the above check again when the rear is fully in, with everything bolted, and is minimally lifted.
38 Install the driveshaft if it's the correct length. The 1LE with an A4 for me showed 1" exactly.
39 Install the axles and bolt the caliper mounts to the housing using the Tee bolts head end on the housing side.
40 Install the rotors and calipers
41 Route the brake lines so that they're not in danger of getting torn or pinched by road junk or moving suspension parts. Use tie-wraps or anything to help.
42 Make sure the axles are all the way in and seated when tightening.
43 Fill the center section with fluid. I used 80-90 valvoline, 2.5-3 quarts. Fill it until it's about to come out of the side fill-hole.
44 Install the panhard rod.
45 Install the sway bar, making sure to use Spohn's install kit with new poly bushings and mounts.
46 If you do not get the poly bushings, you will have to weld an extension on each metal clip holder, so the U-bolts will fit through.
47 Install the wheels.
48 Follow the break-in procedure exactly as Moser states in the paperwork.
0 De-install procedure.
1 Jack the rear of the car and support it securely on jack stands to the frame. Place blocks/chalks on the front wheels to prevent the car from moving
2 Remove the rear tires (use the hand brake to hold the tires when removing the lugs, if necessary)
3 Remove the torque arm from both sides.
4 Remove the driveshaft
5 Unbolt the brake calipers from the rear (2 bolts each), then hang them to avoid stress on the brake lines
6 Remove the rotors and unbolt the caliper mounts, which are being held on by the axle ends (4 bolts each)
7 Unbolt the rear cover
8 Turn an axle so that the small pinion bolt is exposed. Remove it, then remove the rod. You may need a Haynes/Chilton/Helm to see this.
9 Rotate the rear so the large opening on the posi unit is exposed. You may have to keep moving/rotating it so the springs in the posi retract
10 Remove the C-clips with pliers
11 Pull the axles out (may feel stuck, so you have to pull pretty hard).
12 Remove the caliper mount/backing plates from the axles.
13 Get the bearings pressed on the axles with the caliper mount, shims, bearings, press rings in that order, from the outside to in. Shims are only for 93-97 brakes
14 Make sure the caliper mounts are on the right direction and corresponding axle, as the axles are different lengths. Follow Moser's diagram
15 On your current rear, unbolt the rest of the "extras" including the brake hoses, ABS sensor, etc.
16 Support the rear end on jack(s).
17 Unbolt the sway bar, panhard rod, LCAs, and shocks.
18 Slowly let the jack down and remove the springs. Pull the rear out of the way.
19 (Install procedure)
20 It might be wise to check the ring and pinion gears for flush contact - to make sure they were installed correctly.
21 You can check the contact patch of the gears by using a light colored grease, that's safe for the rear. You should see good, even contact.
22 It will also be wise to paint the housing to prevent it from looking rusty with surface rust. You can do this with the casting area of the center section, as well.
23 Tap the axle seals onto the housing axle ends with a big socket/pipe. Make sure they're seated well, even, and provide a good seal when the axles are slipped in.
24 Place the 10 bolts that are serated on the inside, so they'll be "sticking out" of the housing area (where it meets the center section).
25 You may need to use wood washers to pull through the bolts so they'll as least stay on the housing. I wouldn't pull them all the way yet, as you could damage the surface.
26 Bolt the center section to the housing with the gasket.
27 You may bolt on the torque arm mount now, or wait until later depending on how "light" you'd want it when you install it.
28 Make sure the torque arm mount has clearance when running the through-bolts through the center section area.
29 The bolts should probably be tightened to around 25-40 ft-lbs. I couldn't find any specs anywhere, so I did around 30-35.
30 Note that the bolts can be still moving up as you're tightening, which can deceitful when tightening.
31 Place the rear on jack(s) and move it toward underneath the car.
32 Place the springs on top of the mounts on the rear and slowly jack it up to they'll meet the correct spot underneath the car.
33 Bolt the LCAs and shocks so you have extra support.
34 Bolt the torque arm to the mount (install the mount if you haven't already). You may have to slide the the mount on the tranny end to get it to fit length-wise
35 Install the new driveshaft U-joint, if necessary.
36 Check the driveshaft length by bottoming it out on the tranny, then pulling it back to where it will meet the yoke on the rear. You should have 3/4"-1"
37 Make sure to perform the above check again when the rear is fully in, with everything bolted, and is minimally lifted.
38 Install the driveshaft if it's the correct length. The 1LE with an A4 for me showed 1" exactly.
39 Install the axles and bolt the caliper mounts to the housing using the Tee bolts head end on the housing side.
40 Install the rotors and calipers
41 Route the brake lines so that they're not in danger of getting torn or pinched by road junk or moving suspension parts. Use tie-wraps or anything to help.
42 Make sure the axles are all the way in and seated when tightening.
43 Fill the center section with fluid. I used 80-90 valvoline, 2.5-3 quarts. Fill it until it's about to come out of the side fill-hole.
44 Install the panhard rod.
45 Install the sway bar, making sure to use Spohn's install kit with new poly bushings and mounts.
46 If you do not get the poly bushings, you will have to weld an extension on each metal clip holder, so the U-bolts will fit through.
47 Install the wheels.
48 Follow the break-in procedure exactly as Moser states in the paperwork.
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