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Tips for header installation

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  • Tips for header installation

    After doing my header installation, here's a list of tips for anyone looking to do headers.

    1. Motor mounts - Plan on doing these during the header installation. Even if you don't have that many miles on the odometer, its a lot easier to replace/upgrade the mounts with everything off.

    2. Spark plugs - Chances are, you need to pull these off anyways. Just replace them, there's no sense in reusing a $3/piece part.

    3. Gaskets - My Pacesetters came with some cheap-looking paper or foam gaskets (can't really tell, didn't even mess with them). Get yourself a decent set of gaskets. Copper ones are popular and work good. Percy's are nice (what I used) and crush against the surfaces to provide a good seal. Whatever you choose, make sure its a good set.

    4. Oil Dipstick Tube - Chances are you're going to need to either adjust this or remove it. Take your time, be patient and bend with care.

    5. Steering Shaft/Joint - Depending on your headers, one of the primaries may get rubbed by the steering shaft. There are a couple ways around this from what I've read. It can be adjusted slightly to change the angle. The LS1 shaft is a good replacement as it is a little smaller, allowing for more clearance. Also, be wary of the rag joint. I've read of a few cases on another board of the rag joint deteriorating due to the added heat of headers. Some people get a Rag Joint Eliminator, like the one sold by Unbalanced Engineering. Others switch over to the LS1 shaft, since it has no rag joint. Either of these are good solutions.

    6. K-member Clearance - Be very wary of how the headers and Y-pipe sit. If any of these peices hit the K-member, or any chassis part for that matter, can cause false knock.

    7. Emissions Fittings (if applicable) - If you need to keep your emissions systems (EGR and AIR namely), make sure your headers have the necessary fittings, the fittings are in the correct location and everything mates up/threads in properly.

    8. Heat Shielding - Check the clearance between the headers and all your plug wires. Having a wire fry can make for a bad day. Heat shielding is inexpensive insurance for your plug wires.

    9. Tools - I cannot mention enough how important it is to have good tools. A good drill with good bits, a bench vice and an angle grinder all came in handy for me when doing the motor mounts. I can't even count how many times I said "Man, I wish I had a ratcheting wrench." Plan ahead, it will make your life easier. This goes especially for tools.

    Feel free to add to this.
    Steve
    79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
    87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
    93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

  • #2
    I would:

    * Do spark plug wires at the same time. Much easier with the manifolds off!
    * Remove the metal boot shields and replace with Taylor firesleeves for thermal protection and less chance of arcing.

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    • #3
      * Give special care to the wires going to the ABS wheel sensors as well as the harness going to the starter. Insulate / relocate these wires to protect them from heat. Firesleave works great for me so far.

      * Place a piece of adhesive backed thermal insulation on the starter to protect it from extra heat.

      * Consider getting a header bolt that locks, like the stage 8 stainless steel set. If you think tightening header bolts on a LT1 is fun, this insurance will make sure they never loosen up.
      Tracy
      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
      Current Mods:
      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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