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  • Antifreeze Leak

    I have a feeling my water pump is dripping out antifreeze onto my distributor been doing this for at least 1, and a half months. Car seems hard to start sometimes, but hasnt failed me yet. Is it normal for you to NEVER see any antifreeze on the ground from a leak coming out of the water pump area. I really hope this isnt the problem. This entire time I have not seen 1 drop of antifreeze on the ground under the car, or anywhere in the engine compartment.

    If theres a leak from the water pump do I need a new 1, or does something need to be resealed?
    94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

  • #2
    new water pump

    Mine just started leaking from a 1 year warranty autozone part. Did not have more than 25,000 miles on it. I have it fixed for about 300.00 and then I drive it to work. well I get half way there and the new waterpump fails. (one of the metal elbow tubes came loose from the pump and dumped coolant everywhere.) I got a rebuilt lifetime warranty one from Oreilly, that way if it goes out again I will only be out the labor to install it. He also found an oil leak on the timing cover so when he goes back in I'll have him fix that too. I guess a 700.00 a year in average repairs and oild changes is better than a car payment but I am getting closer to selling this car everyday so that I can get one that I can work on and that will hopefully not cost so much to fix.

    So far the best pumps were the original one (75000 miles before it went) and the Pep boys (bosch one that was pulled in 75000 miles when I did the tune up so I sprung for a new pump while I was there.) The airtex, failed almost immediately but the mechanic swears by this brand and said in the seven years he has used that product he has never had one returned for failure until mine. Autozone's 1 year new one only lasted 25000 miles so I suggest you stay clear of their junk ones.

    Be ready to spend about 400.00 for the repair and while you are there, if you are in the general service time, replace your distributor cap, rotor and wires adn address any oil pan front seal leaks. It will cost you more up front but you won't be paying for unnecessary labor hours if one of the parts under the waterpump goes out.

    Jason

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    • #3
      Maybe nows a good time to sell the car while it still runs for an LS1.
      94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by EquatorHeat00
        I have a feeling my water pump is dripping out antifreeze onto my distributor been doing this for at least 1, and a half months. ?
        If you are concerned about that, do a cooling system pressure check. This can be done with the engine cold, enabling you to crawl all over the engine and look for any leaks.

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        • #5
          Do bad O2 sensors cause antifreeze to leak? Only thing that makes no sense is if the water pump is leaking wouldnt there eventually be coolant on the ground, and I have never had 1 drop on the ground?? I had a code about 5 months ago, and i took it to the service station, and it said bad O2 sensor, but the mechanic didnt think that was the problem, so he just erased the codes, and told me to come back if the service engine light came back on, but it never did. My car use to surge at start when i first noticed the problem, and i have a failing catalytic converter that rattles. Car struggles to start now. I really hope thats my problem!!!!
          Whatever it is I'll take it in next week this not knowing stuff is driving me crazy. If its the O2 sensors I'll be happy, and get it fixed. If its the other problem. I'm driving it till it breaks for good.
          94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

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          • #6
            Do bad O2 sensors cause antifreeze to leak?
            If your car isn't overheating then you don't have a leak.

            I'm assuming that your question is, you're wondering why your car has a hard time starting?. Or is it when your turn the key off, and your car Diesels?. Some peoples definition of "surge" is different. Thats why I ask.

            Is the car losing power the more you give it gas going down the road?

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            • #7
              My car does NOT over heat, and it does leak antifreeze, but of it ever hits the ground. I have to keep filling it up in the reservoir every few days. My car also has a high rpm miss when I hit the gas hard and it climbs to like 4 or 5 thousand rpm's. Hard starts when cold, and sometimes some shaking. Catylitic converter rattles also, but don't care about that.
              Getting it looked at Sat., or Mon.

              Anyone have a guess here?
              When the water pump leaks a little wouldn't some of the antifreeze hit the ground????
              94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by EquatorHeat00
                My car does NOT over heat, and it does leak antifreeze, but of it ever hits the ground. I have to keep filling it up in the reservoir every few days. My car also has a high rpm miss when I hit the gas hard and it climbs to like 4 or 5 thousand rpm's. Hard starts when cold, and sometimes some shaking. Catylitic converter rattles also, but don't care about that.
                Getting it looked at Sat., or Mon.

                Anyone have a guess here?
                When the water pump leaks a little wouldn't some of the antifreeze hit the ground????

                My guess is a partially blown headgasket. I've seen a mildly deformed fire ring leak coolant into a cylinder. The coolant turns to steam during the combustion event. It can cause hydro lock in severe cases or just hard starting and shaking until the water is burned off. It can also cause higher rpm miss due to the additional water being pulled in from higher throttle inputs. It sure sounds like that's possible given your symptoms.

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                • #9
                  Is this a problem that will get worse, and eventually blow the engine up? Or can I let it run as is? If the repair is a lot of money I would rather just live with it.
                  My oil color looks completely normal, and no steam at all present.
                  Does this require a coolant pressure test, or will that mess the car up more?
                  94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by EquatorHeat00
                    Is this a problem that will get worse, and eventually blow the engine up? Or can I let it run as is? If the repair is a lot of money I would rather just live with it.
                    My oil color looks completely normal, and no steam at all present.
                    Does this require a coolant pressure test, or will that mess the car up more?
                    A slightly leaking gasket will let a small amount of coolant into the chamber (drwn in from engine vacuum) where the ignition event turns it to steam and it exits the tailpipe. As it gets worse it dilutes the ability of the oil to lubricate and you'll probably gall the affected cylinder. It could also start going in another direction which is coolant into the oil pan, that's where your oil turns into a chocolate milkshake looking mix. I just stopped and looked at a Camaro this morning that was for sale cheap. They said it needed a water pump and radiator, as soon I checked the dipstick I knew it needed more. A compression and leakdown test should be done to make sure the cylinder is sealed. A cooling system pressure check could also tell something. If you pick up a Cooling system pressure test kit from Autozone (they loan them), you can hook it up and do some diagnostic yourself. Starting the car and pressurizing the system will show if combustion is affecting the pressure... a sure sign of a leak. I wouldn't do a cold and non running pressure check as that could force fluid into the affected cylinder and you could hydrolock the engine.

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                    • #11
                      I think if you bleed the coolant system you might find the leak,EH00.

                      I 2nd what Joe said about preasure checking the system, but first bleed the coolant system to get the correct reading.

                      let us know what happens, EH00.

                      I just hope that whoever placed the water pump bleed the coolant system.

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                      • #12
                        Car was checked today by a mechanic.
                        Pressure tested cooling system, and no leaks found.
                        Compression test was not done. He said that isn't going to show anything that would help fix this problem.
                        Either the problem isnt bad enough yet, or its something else. Maybe dirty fuel injectors who knows. He drove the car twice at 4,000 and 5,000 rpms twice found no problem???
                        I just have to wait for the problem to get worse I guess. They couldnt find anything. At least I know for piece of mind, and 54.00 dollar that its ok for now I guess. All I know is antifreeze is going somewhere. I thnik it depends on how har the car is driven that determines if I lose antifreeze because I can go days, and lose nothing. He told me to look for steam coming out of the tail pipes at cold start ups in the future. I did lose a little bit of antifreeze after he drove the car today.
                        94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

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                        • #13
                          Are you sure there isn't a crack in the overflow resevoir?

                          Christopher Teng

                          1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
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                          • #14
                            If there was there should be a puddle on the ground? Thats not the case anyways. With my cars symptoms that wouldnt make any sense.
                            94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

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                            • #15
                              I checked my tail pipes this morning on a cold start up, and there was this white exhaust fumes coming out is that normal? (It cleared up after a couple of minutes idleling.) Is this the steam I was told to look out for? It just smelled like exhaust fumes that were white nothing looking like moisture came out.
                              Keep in mind I also have a stock catalytic converter that has a rattle to it, so a little piece of the honeycomb inside is broken off. That might make my exhaust fumes worse.
                              94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires.

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