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  • Exhaust and Electric questions

    Hey guys. First, a question regarding exhaust. The cat's on my 02 Z28 are slowly but surely breaking down as winter approaches. It went from having a small rattling sound in the passenger side cat to now rattling and squeaking (i think thats whats squeaking). I talked to a friend of mine about ways I can get the most performance from my car without needed massive mods and stuff. He said since its a V8, the best thing I can probably do is put a nice exhaust system into it. So my question is, if I were to buy the following things, would I be able to hook them up together?

    New headers, the stock ones look kinda crappy:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

    Here's a link to the stock ones, which are currently in my car:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

    And heres the magnaflow exhaust stuff I want to put in:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

    So will the new headers and the magnaflow system work together without me needing to weld/cut stuff?


    And now for the electric question. I recently noticed that the lights on my dash, as well as the headlights flicker a little bit while driving. I've cleaned the batter terminals / cables and the contacts by the relay's box, but the lights still flicker. Does anyone have any ideas on other things I can try?

    Thanks!

    -Erik

  • #2
    don't get that Header. SSAutoChrome is a really popular DSM part dealer. He sells lots of intercooler kits for those cars. But ask almost any of them and they'll tell you that his Headers won't hold up, they crack and tend to break apart from the heat. Mind you this is in a turbo header comared to a N/A Header and I don't know off the top of my head the EGT that would be common for a LS1 but I figured I could share what I knew to help you out.
    1990 Eagle talon TSI- daily driver

    78' firebird formula -350/350- stock...now dead

    Comment


    • #3
      Exhaust mostly

      So if I understand correctly. The 3 major things I need to get the most HP from my stock setup is as follows:

      1. 3'' PaceSetter Headers (2):
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=140022811180
      2. 3'' Magnaflow Catalytic converters (2):
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=8063181692
      3. 3'' PaceSetter Y-Pipe
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110017290861
      4. 3'' Magnaflow muffler
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Magna...QQcmdZViewItem

      So all in all, if I got all the stuff via ebay and installed it myself, looks like I'm gonna spend around $700.

      Also, with the current setup, I'm hoping that the stock pipes after the Y-pipe are 3'' in diameter as well. I like the stock rectangular exhaust tips on my camaro now, and I'm pretty sure the pipes are fine. There doesn't appear to be any rust or cracks or anything on em, so provided they are 3'' in diameter, I shouldn't need to replace them.

      Any comments / suggestions on this are welcomed.

      And lastly, if my electric system seems weak, what are some areas I should check for problems? I've already cleaned all the contacts in the engine area, battery seems good, alternator seems fine as well. Could there be a short somewhere?

      -Erik

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by circut
        That's my set up and it'll take a weekends worth of work. I had to weld the catalytic converter. If you do the work yourself...which you should, be prepared to be on your back for hours and bloody knuckles. Some suggest wearing gloves, but I don't like working with them because it's hard to feel around. Take your time and do it right the first time...trust me. Replace your O2 sensors too if you don't plan to run simulators. See if you can't get coated headers...I like the painted look, but they will probably rust from the inside out in a couple years time. And no, your i-pipe is only 2.5. You should run a full cat-back with a 3 inch i-pipe.

        http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=53 I'm sure you can find a cheaper deal if you search around.

        Your butt-o-meter will really feel a difference...big time.

        What makes you think your electrical system is weak?

        If you plan to be on the board for awhile you should include your signature...ie, ride, year, mods...whatever...so we don't have to play the guessing game.

        Christopher Teng

        1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
        Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
        B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
        Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
        Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

        Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

        F-Body Dirty Dozen

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Christopherrr

          Replace your O2 sensors too if you don't plan to run simulators. See if you can't get coated headers...I like the painted look, but they will probably rust from the inside out in a couple years time. And no, your i-pipe is only 2.5. You should run a full cat-back with a 3 inch i-pipe.

          http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=53 I'm sure you can find a cheaper deal if you search around.

          Your butt-o-meter will really feel a difference...big time.

          What makes you think your electrical system is weak?

          If you plan to be on the board for awhile you should include your signature...ie, ride, year, mods...whatever...so we don't have to play the guessing game.
          First off thanks for the pointers. I'd like to do it myself, but your talking about welding.. I've done it before but if I'm gonna invest all this money in something, I don't trust myself to weld the pieces together without weakening the metal...

          Where is the I-pipe located at? If your answering the stock pipe question I had, then I assume your talking about the pipes behind the Y-pipe.. I looked at the tips again today and it appears everything is welded together. So I'll need to take out all the old stuff and put totally new pipes in.

          Also, can i get away with using only 1 catalytic converter? Or should I prolly have my emissions tested first, then install this new setup?


          In response to the electrical question, I think its weak because when I'm cruising along on the highway at night, I looked at my dash lights (radio + HUD + headlights) were all flickering like. If the car is running but not in gear or being rev'd, everything seems to glow stable. But when I put it into gear and give it gas, suddenly the stuff I listed above starts to flicker.. It's not a major problem, but more of an annoyance. Not sure if it makes any difference, but I put the little 'skip shift resistor bypass' in my camaro ahwile back -- but just started noticing the flickering like 2-3 weeks ago.

          Thanks again!

          -Erik

          P.S.
          I would customize my profile thing, but every time I try to click on the 'User CP' I get a forum error.

          But for now:

          [---------------------------------------------------]

          Black -- 2002 Chevrolet Z28 Camaro 5.7L

          Mods:
          Pretty sweet steering wheel cover
          Rebuilt 10-bolt diff
          K&N Air filter
          Integrated IPOD to stock stereo (WOOT!)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by circut
            First off thanks for the pointers. I'd like to do it myself, but your talking about welding.. I've done it before but if I'm gonna invest all this money in something, I don't trust myself to weld the pieces together without weakening the metal...
            What I did was drive with open headers and just hang the exhuast system with coat hangers to the shop for them to weld up everything.

            Originally posted by circut
            Where is the I-pipe located at? If your answering the stock pipe question I had, then I assume your talking about the pipes behind the Y-pipe.. I looked at the tips again today and it appears everything is welded together. So I'll need to take out all the old stuff and put totally new pipes in.
            The i-pipe the short intermediate pipe that follows right behind the y-pipe. I still strongly suggest you do a full cat-back. No point of doing all that work, only to have your exhust get choaked up with a smaller diameter i-pipe.

            Originally posted by circut
            Also, can i get away with using only 1 catalytic converter? Or should I prolly have my emissions tested first, then install this new setup?
            You shouldn't...you'll be spitting codes all day without a tune, and it would be illegal. The gains wouldn't be worth it and don't think the exhuast tone would all too pleasing. Don't cut corners.


            Originally posted by circut
            In response to the electrical question, I think its weak because when I'm cruising along on the highway at night, I looked at my dash lights (radio + HUD + headlights) were all flickering like. If the car is running but not in gear or being rev'd, everything seems to glow stable. But when I put it into gear and give it gas, suddenly the stuff I listed above starts to flicker.. It's not a major problem, but more of an annoyance. Not sure if it makes any difference, but I put the little 'skip shift resistor bypass' in my camaro ahwile back -- but just started noticing the flickering like 2-3 weeks ago.
            Check all your grounds and connections. Clean all of them...even if they look clean. Clean your positive connection to your alternator and make sure all connections are dry and clean. Make sure all connections are tight. Check this thread http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthre...985#post127985

            Originally posted by circut
            I would customize my profile thing, but every time I try to click on the 'User CP' I get a forum error.
            Use your "Quick Links" button. Top left hand corner.

            Christopher Teng

            1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
            Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
            B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
            Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
            Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

            Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

            F-Body Dirty Dozen

            Comment


            • #7
              First things first

              Since my catalytic converters both need to be replaced, I think I'll get them first. Can you recommend a good brand? Or are they all pretty much the same? I saw em going for like 60$ apiece on ebay, but tommarrow I plan to checkout the price at murrays, pep boys etc..

              Also, when I click the quick links drop down arrow, then select edit signature, I get a forum error when I try to save it.. Can one of the dirty dozen checkout the db and see whats up?

              -Erik

              Comment

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